Hedonism: It’s what’s for dinner

Louis Roederer's Cristal, living up to expectations and justifying its cost

This past weekend, a close-knit group of wine lovers got together for our 2^nd Annual wine dinner.  Last year we focused on different value wines from around the world.  This year, the focus was squarely on the opulent, hedonistic wines created during the first half of this decade.  

Unlike other wine dinners I have put together in the past, I wanted this to be a new experience for me.  So amongst the wines I selected were a couple massive names in the fine wine world that I have not yet partaken in. 

2000 Louis Roederer, Cristal (Champagne) 

This was a bold way to start the night, but why not start with a legend?  Since its inception back in 1876, Cristal has garnered the reputation for being one of the elite wines.  Its trademark clear glass bottle with a flat bottle, which was initially requested by Tsar Alexander II of Russia, welcomed everyone to the dinner table.  It quickly showed by it is so highly regarded. 

The beautiful yellow-gold juice jumped with aromas of honey, lemon and fresh almond.  The flavors unveiled were distinguishable: honeysuckle, lemongrass and mineral notes.  The bubbles were tight and exceptionally small, even by prestige cuvee standards.  Overall the quality and balance justified its inclusion.  

Paired with Lobster Ceviche w/ radish & cucumber matchsticks, avocado 

2003 Joh. Jos. Prüm, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Auslese, Goldkapsel (Riesling) 

The star of the night was this beauty that hails from the beautiful vineyards of Sonnenuhr along the Mosel River in Germany.  These southern facing vines get optimum sunlight which certainly showed in the 2003 gem. 

It was a rich golden hue with a bouquet that made your mouth water.  Aromas of Apricot, fresh pineapple juice and slate leapt from the glass and teased the hell out of the olfactory!  After the aromas, I was simply hoping that the flavors wouldn’t let me down.  Rich and almost botrytis flavors of pineapple and lemon abounded with a refreshing minerality underlying it all.  This indulgent, perfectly balanced, nature driven Riesling was EPIC! 

Paired with Foie Gras on pineapple planks, garnished with caviar 

The line-up that would make any wine aficionado salivate!

2005 Kosta Browne, Sonoma Coast (Pinot Noir) 

The youngest of the wineries showcased on the night, Kosta Browne has a fun little back story.  The winery emerged from the dream that two restaurant employees, Dan Kosta and Michael Browne, had to start a winery.  From the tip-driven operation that fueled the first vintage, to the investor back version that we know today, their rise to stardom in the Cali wine scene is nothing short of remarkable.  So how did the 2005 hold up? 

The hazy, rich garnet was a little surprising for a pinot noir and the legs were so pronounced and ran down the side of the glass as if they were molasses.  Never has a visual indicator so accurately told you what is in the glass.  

The aromas were a little tight and alcoholic at first, but gave way to blue and red fruit after a bit.  The flavors of blueberry and cola were somewhat overwhelmed by the racy acidity and potent alcohol, although it did have a nice mint/eucalyptus undertone.  The label read 15% alcohol however there is no way this wine was any less than 16%.  

My verdict on this one is that it needs a lot of time in the bottle, possibly another 5+ years, although it is a bit uneven and may not age well.  In the end this was not a Pinot Noir for  Pinot Noir lovers.  Rather this is one for those who like their Pinots to be overripe, tannic Zinfandels/Petite Sirah.  I hope their other vintages prove me wrong in the future. 

Paired with Duck Confit w/ toasted pumpkin seeds in butternut squash bisque (Dish of the Night!) 

2004 Domaine du Pegau, Chateauneuf du Pape (Rhone Blend) 

The illustrious Feraud estate gets the nod for the main course selection.  Selected because of its history and pedigree for producing tremendous wines, this was one that I was certainly looking forward to.  The only problem, our friend Mr. TCA came to visit.  Although it was not completely spoiled, it was enough to dampen my spirits somewhat.  

Paired with Steak au Poivre w/ frites and baby arugula tossed in white truffle oil 

2003 Pontet-Canet, Pauillac (Bordeaux Blend) & 2003 Robert Foley, Claret (Bordeaux Blend) 

The dueling Clarets…cue the banjos!  The battle between the aspirational 5^th growth from Bordeaux and the “rock star” from Napa was somewhat muddled by the scars left from the alcohol from the Kosta Browne and the taint from Pegau.  Nonetheless, I soldiered on! 

Pontet-Canet showed its typical Pauillac pencil shavings and currant, but had super restrained/dull aromas and flavors.  It made me think it may be in a hibernation phase.  Bummer!  

Bob Foley’s squid ink colored Claret clearly won this battle.  Its bouquet was boastful, with black fruit and underbrush leading to flavors of black fruit and spices.  The tannins were still big and this wine will certainly benefit from more age. 

Paired with young Manchego and Cabrales cheese 

Overall, the night offered three stout revelations: 

1. Cristal is worth it, every penny.
2. JJ Prüm is not only an all-star producer, as I knew to begin with, but I now categorize them with Domaine Zind Humbrecht as the two best white wine producers in the world, per my experiences.
3. Some reputations are not warranted, based on initial impressions and notions of how a wine should represent the varietal.

Hopefully you will plan an evening like this with your friends.  It does not have to be as opulent as this, but there are very few things more fun than having a stimulating wine and culinary experience like this with close friends!  This dinner has us already talking about next year’s addition.  It will be hard to top some of the wines and food courses that we had, however I know that Jason Berkman (Exec Chef at Legal Seafoods) is chomping at the bit to top himself, as am I.