Category Archives: In the Vineyard

Sonoma’s Italian Influence: Seghesio Family Vineyards

Back in the late 1800s and early 1900s, California was alive with a buzz for wine (no pun intended).  Immigrants from Spain and Italy were finding the West Coast’s temperate climate and proximity to the Pacific to be quite reminiscent of home.  It was during this time that the Mondavi and Seghesio families settled in the region.  The rest as they say is history.

The story of the Mondavi Family is well documented and was even the basis of the successful TV series, Falcon Crest in the 1980s.  While the exploits of Cesare, Robert, Peter, Michael and Timothy Mondavi are well documented and their reputations larger than life, there is another family which deserves to have their story told.

The Seghesio Family has been making wine since the 1890s and it is my attempt to shed a little light on their story in the Sonoma Valley.  To find out a little more about the Seghesio’s, read Sonoma’s Italian Influence: Seghesio Family Vineyards written exclusively for Cork’d.

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From the Winery to You: Damian Parker of Joseph Phelps

Joseph Phelps Vineyards are in my opinion, the top red wine producer in the United States.  Their signature wine, Insignia, is a testament to the quality that California is capable of.  Insignia is on a level that it will easily show and possibly out-perform the First-Growths of Bordeaux.

A few weeks ago, I reached out to Damian Parker, the long-time Director of Winemaking at Joseph Phelps and asked if he would tell us a bit of his story.  He is quite an interesting guy, heading-up a team that has produced these magical wines and has never had an Insignia rated lower than 90 points during his reign.  One would think that a man at the helm of one of the greatest red wines in the world would enjoy those grapes most of all.  As you will find out in the interview, that is very far from the truth.

Damian Parker of Joseph Phelps

What is your job?

Director of Winemaking of both Joseph Phelps Vineyards and Freestone Vineyards.

Where is your winery?

St. Helena (Joseph Phelps) and Freestone (Sonoma)

Why did Joseph Phelps chose your sites?

In 1973 Joe was looking for a site to build a winery in Napa Valley and found the Connolly Polled Herford Ranch east of St. Helena and as they say, the rest was history.

He purchased our Yountville vineyard in1979 and after that in 1983 purchased our vineyards in Stags Leap and Rutherford. The Barboza vineyard in Stag Leap was leased in 1997 and the Backus vineyard has been leased since 1977, and then purchased in 1996. In 1999 we purchased the Suscol vineyard southeast of the town of Napa.

For Freestone, Joseph Phelps Vineyards had been make Chardonnay sourced from the Carneros District and in the late 1990’s Joe started to look for a cooler site and that search leads us to the Sonoma Coast. Things progressed from looking for a grape sources to a new winery dedicated to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  That is how Freestone came into being.

How many employees do you have?

At both wineries including vineyard and winery employees, about 125 employees.

Why did you choose wine?

It just fell into my lap. I was going to school and was kind of bored, so in 1977 my brother suggested I apply for a harvest job at Chateau Souverain in Geyserville. I loved it. I worked harvest, got laid off and re-hired a month later to help bottle. I stayed at Souverain for four years and then came to Phelps the summer of 1981. I still love it and I can’t think of doing anything else.

Describe your wines in one word?

Balance

What is your favorite varietal?  

One of my favorites is Chardonnay.

What was your favorite wine that you produced and what set it apart from your other wines?

2002 Insignia. It was the first wine Ashley Hepworth and I made together.

What was your greatest ever wine experience?

First would be a bottle of 1975 “Eisele Vineyard” Cabernet Sauvignon from Joseph Phelps.  Second would be a bottle of 1982 Cos d’Estournel I had at the chateau in 2006.

What is your favorite meal to pair with one of your wines?

Provencal roasted chicken with our 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

What does “terroir” mean to you?

Everything that influences the growing and making of the wine.

Besides your own wines, who would you say is your favorite wine producer?

Schramsberg

What do you hope for the future of Joseph Phelps Vineyards?

I hope to assist the Phelps family with the transition to the next generations. To continue to learn and develop the best that our vineyards and production can deliver through respecting tradition and embracing innovation..

What is your favorite thing to do outside of wine?

Outside of wine, my favorite things to do are spend time with my family, play golf, traveling and gardening.

What challenges do you see moving forward regarding regulations or economic restrictions and what are you currently doing to adapt?

Access to our customers, whether through the 3-tier system or direct shipping is always the number one challenge. We continue to support the different organizations that support and lobby for better access to sell wine.

Second, is to build as strong as possible relationship with our distributors and our direct costumers, through quality wines, fair pricing and service.

If you were not into wine, what would you do?

I would teach elementary school.

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From the Vineyard to You: Q&A with James Hall of Brothers in Arms

Brothers in Arms is a wonderful small production winery in the Langhorne Creek region of South Australia.  The property was cultivated with grapevines way back in the 1890s.  It is  from these vines that their Cabernet Sauvignon is still made today.  Now that is “old vine”!

The reason that I showcased Brothers in Arms for an interview with Cork’d is that they make some incredible, long aging wines.  Over the course of the past year, I have had their 1998 Shiraz a couple times and it is as massive as most 2004!  Truly spectacular. 

I hope you enjoy the From the Vineyard to You: Q&A with James Hall of Brothers in Arms interview piece written exclusively for Cork’d.

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Q&A with David Ramey of Ramey Wine Cellars

Prior to my time at Stonehedge Inn, I had been introduced to David Ramey’s wines on a few different occasions.  His Clarets and Cabernets are without a doubt in the upper-echelon of California Reds.  Due to my experiences with his wines in the past, I half expected him to say “velvety” when asked for “one word to describe your wines”.

Within the past year, my appreciation for Mr. Ramey’s work took on new life.  While doing research for a wine tasting that I would be hosting, I began reading some of his writings on significant Oenological topics.  One study he wrote in particular, Low input winemaking–let nature do the work, really spoke to me about the type of winemaker that David Ramey is.
 
Based on tasting his wines and reading his scholarly reports, my opinion is that David Ramey is a terrific example of what a winemaker should be.  He is not one to manipulate wines by using newfangled or controversial techniques, but rather he uses science to gently accentuate what nature has given him, while preserving terrior, character and structure.
 
With this being said, let’s find out a little bit more about David and Ramey Wine Cellars.  To do so, please read the full interview From the Vineyard to You: Q&A with David Ramey conducted exclusively for Cork’d.
 
 

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From the Winery to You: Peter Merriam of Marriam Vineyards

Peter Marriam of Marriam Vineyards

What is your job? 

I am the owner and vintner.

Where is your winery? 

Our vineyard is located on the eastern edge of the Russian River Valley in Sonoma.

Why did you choose that location? 

This area was one of the first vineyard sites planted back in the 1890s.  Our vineyard site “Windacre” was most recently planted in the late 1970s, so the vines were 20 years old when we purchased it.

How many employees do you have? 

We have just five full-time employees including myself.  We have our two winemakers (Margaret Davenport and David Herzberg), both of whom came to us via UC-Davis.  We also have two tasting room employees as well.  Its small team; however very much a family.

Why did you choose wine? 

Our passion for wine started in the late 1970s – early 1980s.  At that point we were mostly drinking/collecting wines and I owned a wine shop in Massachusetts for 18 years.  During that time we traveled to France and California often and in 1995 we started looking for vineyard land in California.  We began purchasing the vineyards which would become Merriam Vineyards in 2000 & 2003.

Describe your wine in one word?

Traditional

What is your favorite varietal?

Funny enough my favorite varietal is Pinot Noir.  We are not currently producing it; however we do have a test site in which we will begin production of Pinot Noir this year.  We took a four acre portion of our vineyards and planted Pinot Noir vines early in 2009.

What was the favorite wine that you produced and what set it apart from your other wines? 

“Miktos” is my favorite.  Only the best barrels are used to blend this Bordeaux-styled wine composed of Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc & Petite Verdot.  “Miktos” in Greek means to mix, blend or come together.

What was your greatest ever wine experience? 

It was an experience that we had in Beaune in Burgundy, France.  We had been searching all day for Domaine Robert Arnoux and finally found it around dinner time that evening.  Mr. Arnoux inststed that we stay and taste through all of his ’89 & ’90 wines.  Needless to say we were there until late in the evening and I still treasure some of those ‘90s in my collection today.

What is your favorite meal to pair with one of your wines?

My favorite meal would be rack of lamb, crusted with Dijon mustard, with thyme, shallots & bread crumbs.  I think this goes very well with quite a few of our wines.

What does terroir mean to you?

The right fruit grown in the right area.  You have to match it with the climate, with the soils, root stock & clones to maximize the terrior’s effect on particular varieties.

Besides your own wines, who would you say is your favorite wine producer? 

In our area of Sonoma, I would say Kosta Browne.

What do you hope for the future of your winery? 

To create a legacy of handcrafted wines that can be passed along to our children.

What is your favorite thing outside of wine? 

Growing up in the Northeast, I always took advantage of the outdoors.  Skiing and fly-fishing are a passion, just as wine is.  Can’t get enough of it!

What is your favorite sports team? 

That would be the Red Sox!  Every evening during the summer the Sox are on while preparing & having dinner.  Summer is all about the vineyard, the cottage, food & wine with good friends, and the Sox!

If you were not into wine, what would you do? 

I would have followed some other passion, be it the fishing industry or the skiing industry.  Got to have passion for life!

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From the Winery to You: Jo Ann Truchard of Truchard Vineyards

Tony and Jo Ann Truchard

Jo Ann Truchard of Truchard Vineyards

What is your job?

I travel with my husband, Tony, to participate in wine-maker dinners and other wine events to represent Truchard Vineyards.  At the office, I am in charge of payroll and bill paying.  Also I have the pleasure of conducting tours and tastings for our winery for our guests.  We also have 3 other tour guides, including our son, Anthony. 

Where is your winery?

We are located in Napa Valley in the wonderful cooler region known as Carneros.

Why did you choose that location?

When we were looking for property in the early ’70s, this region was “not yet discovered”.  We were impressed at the lower price per acre for purchasing here, aw well as the rolling hills of pasture land and orchards. 

How many employees do you have?

We have 8 in the winery and 19 in the vineyard.  During harvest, the numbers in the vineyard go up considerably. 

Why did you choose wine?

We started with growing grapes in our vineyards and as we tasted the wines made from the grapes, we started enjoying and appreciating wine more and more. 

Describe your wine in one word.

Balanced

What is your favorite varietal?

Pinot Noir

What was your favorite wine that you produced and what set it apart from your other wines?

2000 Roussanne was our first white Rhone that we made.  The  floral notes and honey flavors and the full mouth feel set it apart from the other wines.

What was your greatest ever wine experience?

The greatest ever wine experience was when James Laube of the Wine Spectator invited Truchard Vineyards to be on the panel of the Hot New California wineries at the New York Wine Experience to show our 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon.  Other wineries were Harlan, Screaming Eagle, Lewis, etc.  What an honor!

What is your favorite meal to pair with one of your wines?

Roasted chicken coated with herbs such as oregano, tarragon and basil and Truchard olive oil.  Then stuffed with rosemary and onion.  Pair this with Truchard Pinot Noir for a delicious meal. 

What does “terroir” mean to you?

Terroir is the wonderful combination of great soil and weather that produces the great grapes.  We feel that we have found this terroir in Carneros which is why we have grown our estate from the original 21 acres to 400 acres by purchasing adjacent parcels of land over the last 30 years. Our diversity of soils from marine sediments to volcanic soils and the cool marine fog and breezes are essential for our grapes to mature and retain their acidity. 

Besides your own wines, who would you say is your favorite wine producer?

We enjoy the wonderful wines from Alsace. 

What do you hope for the future of your winery?

We have 6 children who enjoy wine.  Our hope is that they will continue the legacy of Truchard vineyards and winery. 

What is your favorite thing to do outside of wine?

Traveling and photography

What is your favorite sports team?

Being Texans, our favorite college is the University of Texas and professional sports is the Dallas Cowboys. 

If you were not into wine, what would you do?

I enjoy working with children so would probably be a teacher, which I did do in my earlier life, or work with a non-profit.

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Post Wine Dinner Interview with Anthony Bell of Bell Wine Cellars

Erol Senel, F&B Director and Sommelier of Left Bank sat down with trailblazing, artisanal winemaker Anthony Bell of Bell Wine Cellars after our March, “Celebration of Wine 2010” Winemaker Dinner. The event went over extremely well, as Anthony’s wines paired with Chef Alex Facio’s dishes were perfect compliments to one another.

All of Anthony’s wines featured during the dinner are available for purchase through Stonehedge Cellars. Call (978) 481-3629 for hours or to order Anthony’s artisanal wines!

Whatch the video here

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Anthony Bell of Bell Wine Cellars

Anthony Bell of Bell Wine Cellars

What is your job?

Founder, winemaker and for a great deal of the years, sales and marketing representative.

Where is your winery?

We are located in Yountville, Napa Valley. Our winery is about 1 mile south of the town.

Why did you choose that location?

Yountville is both a historic origin of grape growing in Napa Valley, as well as enjoying a very special microclimate. Additionally, the winery was suited to our size and style of wine production.

How many employees do you have?

My wife and I have 6 employees.

Why did you choose wine?

I am one of those unique individuals in our industry – I was fortunate enough to have grown up on a wine estate in Stellenbosch, South Africa. This allowed me to develop an early passion for vineyards and grape growing.

Describe your wine in one word?

Balance

What is your favorite varietal?

Cabernet Sauvignon

What was your favorite wine that you produced and what set it apart from your other wines?

In 1991 we were the first winery to produce a single vineyard, single clone varietal wine. This was our Clone 6 Cabernet sauvignon, made from a hundred year old vine that I brought back into commercial production while working at Beaulieu Vineyard.

What was your greatest ever wine experience?

In 1991, I had the opportunity to celebrate the 50th Anniversary Release of a BV Georges de Latour Cabernet – the 1986 vintage. In conjunction with the great Andre Tchelistcheff, I hosted numerous vertical tastings of the wine, culminating in two tastings of all 50 vintages – a first in the California wine industry and an incredible retrospective look at Napa Valley grape growing and vintages.

What is your favorite meal to pair with one of your wines?

Shellfish with our Sauvignon Blanc, roast duck breast with our Syrah and a well aged steak with our Clone 6 Cabernet.

What does “terroir” mean to you?

The influence of the soil and microclimate upon a specific vineyard location. Our Canterbury Vineyard Syrah is a great example of vineyard specific terroir.

Besides your own wines, who would you say is your favorite wine producer?

I enjoy the earth and fruit driven flavors of Italian wines.

What do you hope for the future of your winery?

Survival! Honestly, to continue to improve our wines and to become known for producing classically styled Napa Valley wines that have a sense of place, with elegance and balance.

What is your favorite thing to do outside of wine?

Gardening, sailing and traveling.

What is your favorite sports team?

San Francisco 49ers; although my partners own the San Diego Chargers so I also root for them! And my wife, being from Vermont, loves the New England Patriots – so it makes for a lively, and conflicted, football season!

If you were not into wine, what would you do?

No clue. I have been around grapes and wine my entire life. I have always wanted to play the saxophone or piano, so possibly a musician?

 

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Interview: Peter Work of Ampelos Cellars

Peter Work of Ampelos Cellars

What is your job? 

I am the winemaker, vineyard manager, truck driver, fork lift operator, dish washer, dog walker…oh yeah, and the owner too – all together with my wonderful wife Rebecca.  Once we got out of the corporate world we realized that we wanted to learn about every aspect of the winemaking process and we quickly got engaged in all of them.  It is all so fascinating….

Where is your winery? 

Our vineyard and winery is located to beautiful Santa Rita Hills in Santa Barbara County, California.

Why did you choose that location? 

Because it is beautiful!  The weather is the best in the world.  People are great and friendly.  The soil is perfect for Pinot Noir and with the cool, long summers we have an ideal location for the grapes.  The food good here too!

How many employees do you have? 

Rebecca, myself, Andres the foreman and Alex the kid.  When we get to some of the peaks of the season we bring in additional like pruning, shoot thinning, leaf pulling and harvest we bring in additional labor.  At harvest time we also have an intern (= Cellar Rat)  here for 3 months.  He always ends up becoming a new son in the family.

Why did you choose wine? 

It is the best job in the world to make something that is a key component of society.  It is part of pleasure, celebration and enjoyment.  And making wine is a lifelong job we can carry until we one day are no longer – and beyond that as our wines will last.  We are creating a product from the raw land and soil – from the sun and the winds.  And it is a pure American product.

Describe your wine in one word?

Pleasure!

What is your favorite varietal?

Pinot Noir by far.  The varietal every wine drinker will one day reach – and never leave.

What was the favorite wine that you produced and what set it apart from your other wines? 

Pinot Noir (again) 2005 Ampelos Estate “Rho” barrel select made from the best 16 barrels from that vintage.  We used special training techniques for the shoots in the vineyard, our favorite barrel producers and overall took the best care of these selected bins.

What was your greatest ever wine experience? 

When one of our wine club members brought a spread of selected shellfish, cheese, pate’s – and 1990 DRC’s.

What is your favorite meal to pair with one of your wines?

Game – especially boar and venison with BBQ vegetables from our own organic garden and a reduction sauce from estate Grenache

What does terroir mean to you?

That is what it is all about!  Wines are an expression of the place they come from and the vineyard management philosophies.  In our case organic and biodynamic combined with sustainability.  There is a signature to a wine made from grapes from our vineyard.

Besides your own wines, who would you say is your favorite wine producer? 

Locally: Seasmoke, Brewer-Clifton, Curran and Foxen.  US: Londer, Breggo, Testarossa, Kosta-Browne (barrel samples).  France: DRC, Leroy.

What do you hope for the future of your winery? 

Constant improvements and focus on quality rather than size.  Many generations of family winemakers to come.

What is your favorite things outside of wine? 

Horses and sailboats

What is your favorite sports team OR favorite movie? 

I really prefer to spend my spare time in the nature rather than watching sports or movies.

If you were not into wine, what would you do? 

Operate a hotel on a small Greek island (which we also do by the way …..)

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Weekend Escape: Flag Hill Winery

Most people do not associate wineries, vineyards and winemaking with New Hampshire. This is with good reason; we have very fertile soil, it rains too much and our winters last eight months. These are not exactly premium wine producing conditions, but somehow Flag Hill Winery makes it work.

Since 1996, Flag Hill has been producing wine on their beautiful estate in Lee, NH. During this time they have been able to find ways to adapt their vines to the harsh and variable New England winters. Like many New England wineries, Flag Hill has to rely on unique varietals or grapes and partially on fruit wines. For those of you who do not prefer fruit wines, they have a nice line of more traditional wines as well.

Expect to see names such as Vignoles and Marechal Foch stocked on their shelves rather than Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. Do not be dismayed, they make some comforting and carefully crafted wines. These varietals have been selected due to the way they adapt themselves to the colder climate and overly generous soil. The most notable of these unique varietals are the Cayuga and Seyval Blanc, which were a crisp and vibrant revelation. However, it was the North River Port that was the biggest surprise of all. The spices, almond and caramel jump from this six year, oak-aged delight!

Every year, Flag Hill hosts a Harvest Fest. They welcome guests into their vineyard to help them bring in the grapes. Typically, tickets for this event are around $10 per person. It takes place towards the end of September or early October. If you are looking for something fun to do, make this it. It is not often that someone can say that they have helped in a winery’s grape harvest! If you are interested in attending, be sure to sign-up to receive the details and the date of the event (dates change year to year depending on when the grapes are ready for harvesting).

If you are looking for a unique wine experience, Flag Hill is definitely worth the quick drive (about 40 minutes from Nashua). You will leave with a renewed appreciation for New Hampshire wine and hopefully with a bottle of their North River Port!

Flag Hill Winery
297 North River Road
Lee, NH 03861
603-659-2949

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