Category Archives: Venting

September 26, 2012 · 9:00 AM

2012 Harvest Update

By Tyler Thomas, Winemaker at Donelan Wine

Although he’s knee deep in fermenting grape juice…literally, winemaker Tyler Thomas of Donelan Wine has been gracious enough to take a few moments to update us on the progress of the 2012 Harvest and explain why this vintage is shaping up to be something special. Thank you Tyler!

The first step of a grape from vine to wine…harvest!

What a difference a year makes!  The beauty of 2012 started with a more “normal” and warm Spring.  Rain was kept at bay during flowering which improved fruit set.  The timing of these events heavily influences the timing of harvest and we knew then that we would likely be able to bring in fruit 1-2 weeks earlier than 2010 and 2011.  This was a refreshing revelation because the later the harvest the higher the risk for rain, and the earlier rain the higher the risk for rot, and rot is not good for yields or quality!

Obsidian Syrah. Small clusters vs. normal syrah clusters, which allows for more intensity in each grape!

What was there to worry about then?  For we always must worry about something!  In California one risk during a “normal” year are heat events that can lead to rapid dehydration around harvest, increasing potential alcohols and impacting the ability to achieve perfect balance.  In 2012 we have had near perfect finishing weather, moderate to cool temperatures with no heat spells.  This has allowed for optimal flavor development and balance in the grapevines with very little risk.  While yields have been up and the last week almost too cool, there is a little more heat in the forecast and I think we’ll get to the finish line perfectly.

“Cremant” press cycle, on Donelan’s new press, which allows for the transfer of clearer juice with far less solids.

As of this writing – September 23rd – we have brought in nearly all our Pinot Noir, a touch of Chardonnay, and our warmest climate Syrah.  All near perfect!  The slightly drier spring, perfect harvest timing, and moderate weather seemed to encourage flavor development at very favorable sugar and acidity levels.  The Pinot is nearing its fermentation end and they all seem to have wonderful flavor purity, terrific delicacy, and general prettiness.  The vintage is turning out to be much like 2007 and if the rain holds off I expect to hear many of my colleagues singing its praises.  Consumers should expect great wine and plenty of it!

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September 19, 2012 · 2:00 PM

Instagram: A wine geek’s dream

Ever since I got my iPhone 4S, I’ve been Instagraming like a fiend. One of my favorite subjects, besides myself of course (jk!), is wine. To a wine lover, there are very few things as photogenic as a seductive wine bottle. I figure I’d share a few of my favorites and hopefully you find as much joy out of them as I do! Find me on Instagram (@SENELWORLDWIDE).

I have a habit of saving the bottles of some of the “greats” that I’ve tasted through the years. Oddly, they make for an appealing picture!

Barossa Bold: Amazingly Aeromatic

Collateral Damage: Remnants of a Southern NH restaurant tour with Donelan Wine’s owner Joe Donelan.

Champagne with a View: 5th Anniversary Dinner at the charming Wellington Room (Portsmouth, NH)

In the Shadow of Greatness: ’01 Opus One

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September 12, 2012 · 10:45 AM

25% off Elyse Winery’s wines? Yes please!

To commemorate a significant milestone in their history, Elyse Winery owner Ray Coursen has put all of his wines on sale for 25% off until September 25th. “It’s just our little way of saying thank you to all our loyal fans” Ray said in his press release email.

I’ve gotten these alerts from wineries in the past; however this is the first time I thought I’d bring it to everyone’s attention. Why?

Reason #1

I think very highly of Ray Coursen and his team’s ability to make tremendous wines. These wines consistently delivery unique and character-filled experiences, or simply put, they make terrific Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Syrah, etc and they are all wines I’d want to share with my family and friends.

Reason #2

Even without the sale, these wines represent tremendous “value.” When you look at the cost of a bottle of high-end, low-production wines, you can expect to spend $50 and up. Ray’s wines represent a far lower entry price point, while still delivering great quality. Thus, with a 25% price break, they are just that more palatable (pardon the pun)!

Please visit Elyse’s Founders Day Sale page to check out the deal and learn a bit more about this great winery.

For my picks, please refer to Elyse Winery: It’s about passion; a piece I wrote that includes my reviews on 4 of their wonderful wines.

Cheers! And please share your experiences!

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August 29, 2012 · 9:00 AM

1976 & 1979: A confluence of events that changed wine history

Many wine buffs debate the seminal moment when American wine announced its arrival. I’d argue that it wasn’t any one moment, but rather two that drove American wine to the forefront of the consumer’s psyche and Europe’s envy.

When you ask someone who’s familiar with wine history, “When did American wine become relevant?” the most common response would typically be the Judgment of Paris. Typically, blind tasting of wines are nothing of note and this event started out in the same nondescript fashion.

George Taber worked for Time Magazine at the time and was the only journalist to cover the now famed “Judgment of Paris”.

Back in 1976, Steven Spurrier, a British ex-pat living in Paris decided to put on a wine tasting to assist in promoting his struggling wine shop. With the American Bi-Centennial coming up, he thought it the perfect opportunity to showcase the wines of California versus their obviously superior French counterparts. Who can blame him? Sounds like something interesting and fun.

What no one, including Spurrier, could have imagined was that two American wineries (Stag’s Leap and Chateau Montelena) bested the Frenchies in both the white and red categories. Wait…WTF?! On top of that, they bested some of the best houses in Bordeaux and Burgundy, France’s bastions of wine excellence.

Now those who make the argument for the Judgment of Paris being the seminal moment have a strong case. This I’m not disputing; however the one reality that is oft overlooked is that this event, although an awesome story that lent itself to a cute movie (Bottle Shock), is not quite as resonating as many think. Think of it this way, it’s like having a PB&J with just the jelly…it’s good, but it’s missing something.

Now it’s time for the peanut butter. In my opinion, an equally significant event took place 63 years earlier with the birth of Robert Mondavi. I’m not here to retell the provocative journey of son of Italian immigrants who went on to become Napa’s most iconic figure (however, if you want to know more about Robert Mondavi, I recommend the book The House of Mondavi…it’s damn awesome). Rather, I’d like to speak to two of the aspects that made this man iconic. First, he was California’s ambassador of wine and did more than anyone to promote the high quality of the wines coming from the fledgling NapaValley. From wine shop owners and to restaurantuers from NYC to Chicago to presidents and dignitaries, everyone heard about the exciting things happening not just at Charles Krug, and later Robert Mondavi Winery, but across Californian wineries in general.

A playful moment with two icons of the wine world: Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild

The second aspect of Mondavi that made him unique was his early vision and embrace of Globalization and business. We could speak of his marketing exploits or his numerous joint ventures with Old and New World wine houses; however it’s a joint venture with a famed Bordeaux chateau that’s worthy of our attention. In 1979 Robert Mondavi teamed up with infamous Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Chateau Mouton-Rothchild (who was soon survived by his daughter Baroness Philippine), to create Opus One.

Opus One is the most significant wine in America. You know it, I know it and the guy down the street that pounds Old Milwaukee knows it. It’s not because it’s the best, although in some vintages it’s been damn near perfect. Rather, Opus One represents the first time that the Old World and Americans alike recognized us as equals in the wine. It’s the single wine worthy of having Bordelaise royalty on the same wine label with Napa royalty. Up until that point, California (and Napa more specifically) had been viewed as a backward, hick village that made some nice table wines. That all changed in the early autumn of ’79 when legendary winemakers Lucien Sionneau and Tim Mondavi teamed up to create the first vintage of Opus One.

This union represents something very significant, as not only did Europe’s perception of American change, but America’s view of American wine changed. Dating back to Thomas Jefferson, Americans have always looked across the Atlantic for their wines. Outside of Californians and to a slightly larger extent the West Coast, most Americans had largely shunned the wines from the “sticks”.

Both of these events took place within a couple years of each other and the momentum they created led to the US Wine Industry as we largely know it today. It wasn’t that one was more significant than the other (although that’s certainly a fun debate), but rather the confluence of these two events running simultaneously that made this period so significant. In many ways, the Judgment of Paris was only possible due to the unabashed promotion and increased quality ushered in by Mondavi (and his colleagues). On the flip-side, the potential of a venture such as Opus One was made possible by the success of Napa’s wines at the Judgment of Paris tasting. Thus, these events and figures are equally important, not only to American wine, but to each other. Imagine if neither had happened…

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August 22, 2012 · 9:00 AM

The Elixir of Life: The Health Benefits of Wine

By Lily McCann

Most people know that drinking too much is not good for their health. Excessive alcohol consumption can lead to liver damage, an increase risk of coronary heart disease, and a higher propensity of developing certain cancers. While this may sound bad news for the avid wine drinker, in fact, regular, moderate consumption of wine is actually good for you. Wine has some remarkable health benefits, and In combination with a healthy lifestyle, it can increase longevity and protect from potentially fatal diseases.

Ever since Serge Renaud (above left) coined the term “French Paradox” and brought it to light on TV’s “60 Minutes”, there have been innumerable studies that have confirmed wine’s many health benefits.

The French paradox

The first suspicion that wine may have had health benefits came as a result of scientists studying the so-called French paradox. Compared to their European cousins, the French have traditionally consumed a diet high in artery clogging saturated fats and have historically been heavier smokers than the rest of Europe. However, the death rate from coronary heart disease among French people has always been far lower than in countries such as Britain or Germany, and now scientists realize why.

In a 1992 study, researchers put down the low rates of heart disease in French people to the amount of wine consumed, in particular, wine consumed with meals. Similar findings were discovered in other parts of southern Europe, where people consume wine regularly with food. However, what was unknown was whether it was the moderate consumption of alcohol that caused these lower rates of heart disease, or the actual ingredients in the wine itself.

Moderate alcohol consumption

It has since been discovered that in fact both factors play a role. Those people that regularly drink a moderate amount of any alcohol not only have a reduced chance of developing heart disease, but also have overall better health. While the reasons for this are still unclear, people who regularly consume alcohol tend to live longer than abstainers do. Furthermore, drinkers are statistically less likely to develop potentially fatal conditions such as cancer.

Of course, people who drink excessively do have higher risks of developing disease or dying early, although people who drink heavily also tend make other poor lifestyle choices, such as smoking, which can skew the statistics. Smoking is by far the worst lifestyle choice for our health. Smokers have a much higher chance of dying prematurely than non-smokers or even than former smokers who have been free from smoking for several years. Furthermore, other lifestyle choices influence on longevity and health statistics too. Not eating enough fruit and vegetables, consuming too much saturated fat, and not exercising regularly, all increase the risk of developing cancers and heart disease. However, even taken these factors into account, among nonsmokers, who eat well and exercise regularly, moderate alcohol consumption has been show to have clear health advantages, and for people who drink wine, these advantages are significant.

Positive health effects of wine

Wine has several ingredients not present in other forms of alcohol and scientists now realize these have great benefits to people’s health. Powerful antioxidants, known as flavonoids, which are particularly abundant in red wine, have been shown to be highly effective at combating diseases such as cancer, dementia, and osteoporosis.

Furthermore, both red and white wine grapes contain resveratrol, which is another powerful antioxidant that not only protects against cell degeneration that causes the diseases mentioned above, but also helps reduce the amount of cholesterol in people’s blood, further reducing the risk of developing heart disease.

As part of a healthy lifestyle

While wine has clear health benefits, excessive wine drinking will have detrimental effects, and it is quite a fine line as to what is too much. However, drinking one or two glasses a day, particularly with a meal, can significantly reduce the risk of developing heart disease and other potentially fatal conditions, so long as wine drinking is part of an overall healthy lifestyle, such as eating the right foods.

This is something else the French and those that live in southern Europe have got right too. The Mediterranean diet, which consists of fresh vegetables, fish, olive oil, and of course wine, has been shown to have considerable advantages over the average American diet. Furthermore, many of the dishes served around the Mediterranean belt, such as Greek salad, risotto, pasta, couscous, spaghetti and meatballs, paella, fish and various seafood dishes, all go really well with wine too, so you can enjoy your food and drink, and reap the reward of a long and healthy life.

Lily writes on behalf of an ethical online health provider. Diet and health are her main interests particularly debunking popular myths and helping people understand their choices.

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August 15, 2012 · 9:00 AM

Oregon, a wonderful alternative to the Cote d’Or

The Cote d’Or in France has forever been the home of the most remarkable representations of Pinot Noir known to this planet. This has invariably has led to a swelling of reputation and a spike in price, particularly in Grand Cru, especially Monopole bottlings from the region. This spike is not limited to the playgrounds of the wealthy, the auction houses; however the spikes have transitioned into retail offerings as well. The hyper-inflation of these wines has effectively priced-out all but a speck of the wine loving community. The terroir driven gems of Nuits-Saint-Georges, Echezeaux and Vosne-Romanee are reserved for those with far deeper pockets. The most sensational example took place a couple years ago at a Christie’s NY auction. The whopping sum of $156,000 was collected for a six bottle lot of 1990 DRC Romanée-Conti.

So what’s a fan of Burgundian-styled, terroir driven wines to do?

The best alternative and better value lies in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Although Oregon is the fourth largest wine producing state in the US, it’s still highly under-appreciated.

Our friends out west benefit from a warm climate during the growing season with a majority of their rainfall ideally coming between November and April. Much of this weather in influenced by the fact that Willamette is flanked by three mountain ranges that form a natural U-Shape: the Oregon Coast, Cascade and the Calapooya. Due to these conditions, they produce wines that are not overripe, are well balanced and possess wonderful acidity.

Over the past decade, Oregon has enjoyed a spectacular string of vintages.  Most notably of these have been 2004-2006 and 2008.  However, even in ‘07 & ‘09 there were wonderful wines made, just of a different, more delicate style (which is widely underappreciated by critics).

If you compare these factors to that of Burgundy, you will see that there’s far more consistency in terms of climate and weather in Willamette. This translates directly to the vinification process and has afforded Willamette winemakers a flattened learning curve in terms of what it takes to make a great wine in the region.

An understanding of the microclimates and terroir has translated into wonderful, artisanal-made wines for many producer and recognition of what makes them “Willamette”. This recognition of regional personality has led to some Burgundian wine houses to set-up shop, most notably Domaine Drouhin.

Some of the best and most consistent producers in the region will still cost you a pretty penny. Most of the Willamette greats are in the range of $50-100 for their high-end, single vineyard lines rather than $250-500+ for the same in Burgundy. The best part is, you are giving up very little if anything in terms of quality.

There are quite a few wineries to keep an eye out for, in terms of producing terroir-driven wines.  In my opinion, the following wineries do a wonderful job capturing this essence with both their entry level and high-end wines: Beaux Freres, Carlo & Julian, Chehalem, Domaine Drouhin, and Elk Cove (which boasts one of the greatest top to bottom line-ups). These wines, as well as some others, will show you the true Burgundian “ideal” of winemaking, allow the wine to speak of the terrior from which it originated.

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August 1, 2012 · 9:00 AM

The Buzz Word: Analyzing Alcohol with Miss Lippy

By Madison Jackson (originally published on Miss Lippy Time)

Different alcohols affect our personalities in different ways and bring out different sides of us with every sip.10 years of practice, mixing, observing, trial and error and piecing together blackouts has provided me with the tools, information and first hand experience to comment on all things alcohol. I’m no expert, but I may be a part time alcoholic. So, here’s what I’ve observed about different types of alcohol on a personal level as a drinking professional.

Written with experiences that are a blur, Madison’s thoughts on alcohol are amazingly real and refreshing.

Tequila: Ohhh the wild wonderful world of Tequila. When you propose a tequila shot to a group of people you are usually faced with two responses, 1) a spring break style shout of “TEQUILA!! WOOO!!!” or, 2) a look of ‘I just smelled a terrible fart’ with simultaneous gag and side-to-side headshake while saying “Ughhh grossss, but okay, lets do it.”

If I’m overloaded with work and on a deadline and sending “sorry, maybe next time” texts to everyone, my friends know they only have to say one word to get me to come out with them: MARGARITAS. Some of my most ridiculous moments have occurred during tequila nights. Even if it involved flashing, very public displays of affection, climbing on top of parked vans and declaring victory and doing somersaults down a busy street… I love tequila with all my heart.

Your biggest enemy while consuming tequila with your friends is anyone who isn’t drinking tequila, because you are all probably going to say and do a lot of embarrassing things and the person not drinking tequila probably won’t accept the “it was just the tequila talking” response.

Tequila is a party drink and it’s meant to be enjoyed in excess. Ordering shitty tequila in a margarita isn’t a cardinal sin, but as your bank account increases, so should the quality of your tequila. Run away from any yellow tequila and into the arms of blanco/white tequila, chilled with salt and lime.

Jameson: Jameson is an acquired taste. I’ve concluded that in order to acquire a taste for Jameson though, you have to have a scrotum, a beard and wear either plaid flannel or khaki pants and boat shoes. This Irish whisky is the shot of choice for pretty much every guy I know and alternating shots of Jameson in between consuming beer is like peanut butter and jelly, a legendary combination that should be passed down from generation to generation.

Rum: I don’t care if I’m standing at the North Pole in tube sox; if I’m drinking rum I feel fucking tropical. Rum makes me want to run around and dance and speak Spanish and be everyone’s best friend. But on the other hand, rum is a tricky little bastard and will sneak up on you quickly leaving you dead behind the eyes and slurring the words to “Poker Face” to everyone’s horror during Karaoke Night. Thank you for coming to my concert.

Beer: This frosty deliciousness brings people together. At the bar, during organized sports, or tailgating, you name it, beer makes everything better. This is especially the case at concerts, with the guy you’re dating that won’t stop talking about himself, while eating Taco Bell, during human interaction and anything else that needs that little extra boost of awesome. A once shy individual may end up doing the “Stanky Leg” for everyone else’s entertainment or decide that they’re going to punch that wall if it keeps looking at them that way! Beer has turned from an adolescent misbehavior into an adult right of passage, a reward to ourselves for getting a project done, powering through a busy workday, or for simply walking outside to get the mail. Job well done, crack one open, you deserve it!

There are so many different types of beer, each with their own story and stereotype which I’ll have to save for another blog, the only thing I have to say right now though is that I don’t understand how anyone can go out for a night of drinking and only drink dark beers. Guinness is delicious, don’t get me wrong, but it’s like drinking a five dollar foot long. Witnessing someone drink multiple glasses just blows my mind.

Whisk(e)y: I have recently entered my whisky phase and have worked from shots of Fireball up to Jack and Coke, which is impressive for me because I usually gag if someone is drinking whisky on TV, let alone if it’s in front of me. Whisky is fun, but makes me feel very entitled and aggressive. Whisky is like an archeologist re-discovering feelings buried deep inside. “Remember when you didn’t give me back my sweatshirt eight years ago? I didn’t forget, I want it back.” It’s like I can feel my neck turning redder and redder with every sip as I huddle with my friends to decide a plan of action for the rest of the night’s bad decisions and how best to end up passed out in the back of a taxi.

Wine: Deliciousness. There’s just so much to explore in the world of wine. It pairs well with meals, makes you feel like you should lift your pinky up and crystal glasses are ideal for making beautiful music. Wine makes you feel silly, warm and in love with everything and then happy and then sad and inevitably a slurring advice giver. And the side effect of drinking a glass before bed is sleeping like an infant. But, for those who lack self-control, wine can begin as a nice idea at dinner and then end up with you drinking out of the bottle and texting your ex-boyfriend that you miss his beard. Also, drinking too much wine is a guarantee for a 48-hour hangover of pure misery. If you are emotional at all, for the love of God, stay away from drinking wine and put the cell phone down!

Jagermeister: Jager reminds me of college. Having debates about its original recipe including deer’s blood and then twirling off to talk to other people. I feel like Jager is a shot that can be shared with minimal disgust amongst members of every drinking class without having to spend time discussing shot options, allowing more time for drinking. I don’t know anyone who loves it enough to call it his or her “drink of choice,” but you should keep a bottle in your freezer anyways.

Vodka: There are so many epic mixology possibilities with Vodka. Vodka is great because you can hardly even taste it, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t there. Vodka reminds me of pre-gaming with my best friends and taking way too many pictures of ourselves on photobooth and pushing sweaty guys away from us at nightclubs and dancing with each other. If someone shows up to a party with a bottle of Vodka, some serious shit is about to go down and someone may end up crying or peeing their pants or both. So prepare yourself, take some deep breaths and think happy thoughts because Vodka could probably make Mother Theresa Hulk smash a motherfucker, it’s that powerful. Liquid courage turns into liquid demon rage very quickly. Watch out for jungle juice, because that shit tastes like skittles and rainbows and Swedish fish partying inside of your mouth, but overconsumption will surely lead to seeing double and ending up with blue jungle juice puke stains on your carpet that can only be removed by replacing them. Drinking is expensive.

Absinthe: Drink with caution and prepare for the most epic blackout of your entire life. There are so many different ways to take an absinthe shot and thousands of different types of absinthe to choose from and who doesn’t love seeing shit get set on fire?! BOOM! It‘s a fast acting drinking adventure that will have you waking up, partially blind from the worm wood that is still in your system, with no recollection of how you got back to your hotel room and maid service banging on your door because check out was 3 hours ago. You may not see a green fairy per say, but you will most certainly be flying high out of your mind.

That is all for now, bottoms up!

Madison Jackson is a writer who enjoys humor, being wildly inappropriate, attempting to freestyle rap and ridiculous life situations. She also enjoys traveling as much as possible, watching movies, listening to loud music, preferably live, making mistakes and learning from those blunders, and doing whatever she feels like doing, all the time. Her motto of “life is too short to be bored so go have some fun and learn to laugh at yourself” pretty much says it all. She runs a witty and refreshing blog “Miss Lippy Time”.

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July 25, 2012 · 9:00 AM

Senel Wine’s Top Syrahs/Blends

“Syrah is for when your palate grows up.”

That statement does sound a bit snobbish; however during a long run the other day, I found a certain amount of wisdom in it.

Early in my red wine appreciation, like many wine lovers, I was definitely all about the boisterous Cabernet Sauvignon and oaky Zinfandels, with maybe a meaty Merlot thrown in for good measure. However at some point my palate began to pick up on the nuances and layers that allowed me to appreciate the elegant boldness of Syrah and Rhone Blends.

My Syrah-epiphany took place at Bedford Village Inn (Bedford, NH) when my wife and I had the good fortune to enjoy one of the single greatest bottles of wine I’ve ever had, a 2005 Guigal ‘Ex Voto’ Hermitage. From that sublime moment on, my palate no longer simply appreciated Syrah, it began to lust for it. I wanted to recapture that majestic, sensual moment.

Since then Bacchus has smiled upon me as I’ve had some truly breathtaking experiences with my favorite grape; however on only one other occasion has a wine given me goose bumps. Here’s my list of Syrahs/Rhone Blends that have put up a valiant effort and are all terrific examples of what this complex grape can produce. 

The 2006 Émigré, with it’s aluring aromas of leather, cocoa and violet, put up a strong showing and came in at #7.

Top 10 Recent Syrahs

  1. 2005 Penfolds Grange – 100 pts
  2. 2005 Guigal, Ex Voto – 98 pts
  3. 2009 Donelan, Obsidian Vibneyard – 97 pts
  4. 2007 Clos des Papes – 97 pts
  5. 2005 Penfolds, St.Henri – 97 pts
  6. 2006 Pax, Richards Family Vineyard – 96 pts
  7. 2006 Émigré – 95 pts
  8. 2007 Pride – 95 pts
  9. 2009 Chateau de Saint Cosme – 95 pts
  10. 2006 Penfolds, St.Henri – 95 pts

Top 5 Vintage Syrahs

  1. 1996 Penfolds, Grange – 98 pts
  2. 1997 Penfolds, Grange – 96 pts
  3. 1998 Domaine du Pegau, Reservee – 95 pts
  4. 1999 Penfolds, St.Henri – 95 pts
  5. 1998 Chateau de Beaucastel – 95 pts

Have your say…What’s your favorite Syrah experience?

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July 18, 2012 · 9:00 AM

What the hell is a puttonyos?

Ever since my first Tokaji experience, my goal has been to expose as many people as possible to this botrytis beauty as possible. Some are blown away, while others look at me as if I have a third eye. For those who read my entries, you may find this hard to believe but if forced, I would select a great Tokaji over any wine world, including my beloved Guigal Northern Rhones.

A couple years back, it became apparent that I’m not the only going crazy for Puttonyos. Costco, the lumbering giant of the retail wine world, carry Kereskedőház, a Hungarian state-run wine producer.  The initial annual agreement from a couple years back of 250,000 bottles, starting out with the 2001 Kereskedőház Tokaji Aszú 3-Puttonyos marked a significant marketing coup for the entire region of Tokaji, let alone Kereskedőház.

For some, you may be asking, why should I care? While others may be asking what the heck is Tokaji?

Tokaji’s legendary status alone should be justification enough for inclusion into your wine consciousness. Other than Champagne, no other wine has been more romanticized than Tokaji.  Dubbed as “the king of wines and the wine of kings” by France’s Louis XIV, it was later used “to woo Louis XIV and drum up support against his Habsburg overlords” and how “Peter and Catherine (both Great) kept Cossacks in Tokaj to escort their supplies (safely)” according to Hugh Johnson’s The World Atlas of Wine.

The importance of Tokaji is so significant to Hungary that it is even mentioned in its national anthem: Tokaj szőlővesszein, Nektárt csepegtettél, Zászlónk gyakran plántálád (translation: In the grape fields of Tokaj, You dripped sweet nectar, Our flag you often planted).

This wine is so entrenched in wine history, let alone the cultural significance of an entire people, that it shouldn’t need Costco to assist in elevating its stature here in the states. However, Communism reduced this region’s notoriety and quality for some time and on top of that these wines cost more than some people care to spend on a sweet wine. Some assistance is more than welcomed.

Outside of its historical status, post-Cold War Tokaji is astounding! There are a few producers who truly set themselves apart, including Chateau Pajzos, Disznókó and Royal Tokay Wine Co., which completely justify their inclusion into the top tiers of wine royalty, up there with Latours and Domaine de la Romanee Conti. This is a pretty big claim considering most people have never heard of Tokaji and even fewer know what the hell a puttonyos is.

Tokaji is both the Hungarian wine region (Tokaji-Hegyalja), from which it gathers its fame and name.  To make things even slightly more convoluted, it is also a region in Slovakia (spelled Tokaj) which produces a namesake wine. Both regions take extreme pride in their wines, though critics find the Hungarian version to possess a bit more quality and depth, especially at the Eszencia level.

There are two primary grapes used in the production of Tokaji, known as Furmint and Hárslevelű. Along with a few other permitted varietals, they produce wines that are very aromatic, deeply complex and of course, sweet.

Now, what the hell is a puttonyos? The sweetness varies based on the level of residual sugar in the wine. This is referred to as puttonyos, or buckets. The base level is 3-puttonyos (minimum of 60 grams/liter of residual sugar) and the top level is 6-puttonyos (minimum of 150 grams/liter). From a consumer’s standpoint, puttonyos is all a matter of personal preference.

However, as a general rule, the higher level of puttonyos, the more expensive the wine. No matter the sugar level, the qualitative end result of Tokaji is nothing short of remarkable. The next time you are at Costco or your local wine shop, grab that funny shaped bottle of Tokaji and feel confident opening it when planning to have family or friends over for a special dinner. Its rich aromatics and deeply seductive nature will surely win new converts and cap off a remarkable evening.

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July 10, 2012 · 9:00 AM

Hot & Sweet: Not me, the ribs!

On July 4th I executed on what my mind already knew…the greatest BBQ rib recipe ever. My wife sent me a link for a video with Fabio (from Top Chef) making his rendition of ribs. The moment I saw them, doused in the inky black BBQ sauce, I knew I had to make them! How did they turn out? Juicy, sweet with some heat and packing intense flavor, these really were the best ribs I’ve ever had!

This is a must try and a terrific meal to compliment with a bigger, yet not overly extracted/oaked wine. Stick with a bold wine; however one with bright acid, as ribs are by nature a filling dish.

Ingredients

  • 2 racks pork spare ribs – trimmed of exterior fat, pat dry
  • 1 beer
  • Something cold to drink while cooking/waiting (i.e. – Mojito, Gin & Tonic, etc)
  • Something complex w/ nice acid to drink while eating (i.e. – Syrah, Zinfandel, etc)

For dry rub

  • 3 tablespoons oregano
  • 2 tablespoons cayenne pepper
  • 2 tablespoons smoked paprika
  • Just a pinch of fresh ground sea salt
  • Just a pinch of fresh ground black pepper

For BBQ sauce

  • 3 cups of balsamic vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons brown sugar
  • 2 tablespoons Sriracha
  • 3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
  • 1 cup ketchup
  • 2 cups of your favorite basic BBQ sauce

Instructions

For Ribs

  • Pre-heat oven to 320 degrees
  • Place both racks side by side, meat side up on baking sheet (baking sheet must have sides)
  • Create the dry rub by mixing all of the ingredients
  • Coat the ribs thoroughly with the dry rub on meat side only
  • Pour ¾ of beer in between and under the racks, pour remaining ¼ down your throat.
  • Wrap the baking sheet loosely w/ aluminum foil and make sure it’s sealed to allow for steaming.
  • Cook for 2 ½-3 hours

For Sauce

  • Pour balsamic vinegar and brown sugar into medium sauce pan and bring to a boil
  • Once boiling, reduce the heat to allow it to simmer and reduce by ½
  • Once the reduction is ready, add all ingredients above except the BBQ sauce, mix w/ whisk and allow it to simmer once more
  • Once at a simmer, add the BBQ sauce and bring to simmer again
  • Once simmering, remove from heat

Finale

  • Bring your grill to 450-600 degrees (optimal heat range for carmelization)
  • Put the rib racks on the grill and generously apply your Balsamic BBQ sauce
  • Close the lid and allow to grill for 4-6 minutes…no peeking!

You are now ready to enjoy the juiciest, nicely flavored ribs ever!

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