Tag Archives: Tyler Thomas

September 26, 2012 · 9:00 AM

2012 Harvest Update

By Tyler Thomas, Winemaker at Donelan Wine

Although he’s knee deep in fermenting grape juice…literally, winemaker Tyler Thomas of Donelan Wine has been gracious enough to take a few moments to update us on the progress of the 2012 Harvest and explain why this vintage is shaping up to be something special. Thank you Tyler!

The first step of a grape from vine to wine…harvest!

What a difference a year makes!  The beauty of 2012 started with a more “normal” and warm Spring.  Rain was kept at bay during flowering which improved fruit set.  The timing of these events heavily influences the timing of harvest and we knew then that we would likely be able to bring in fruit 1-2 weeks earlier than 2010 and 2011.  This was a refreshing revelation because the later the harvest the higher the risk for rain, and the earlier rain the higher the risk for rot, and rot is not good for yields or quality!

Obsidian Syrah. Small clusters vs. normal syrah clusters, which allows for more intensity in each grape!

What was there to worry about then?  For we always must worry about something!  In California one risk during a “normal” year are heat events that can lead to rapid dehydration around harvest, increasing potential alcohols and impacting the ability to achieve perfect balance.  In 2012 we have had near perfect finishing weather, moderate to cool temperatures with no heat spells.  This has allowed for optimal flavor development and balance in the grapevines with very little risk.  While yields have been up and the last week almost too cool, there is a little more heat in the forecast and I think we’ll get to the finish line perfectly.

“Cremant” press cycle, on Donelan’s new press, which allows for the transfer of clearer juice with far less solids.

As of this writing – September 23rd – we have brought in nearly all our Pinot Noir, a touch of Chardonnay, and our warmest climate Syrah.  All near perfect!  The slightly drier spring, perfect harvest timing, and moderate weather seemed to encourage flavor development at very favorable sugar and acidity levels.  The Pinot is nearing its fermentation end and they all seem to have wonderful flavor purity, terrific delicacy, and general prettiness.  The vintage is turning out to be much like 2007 and if the rain holds off I expect to hear many of my colleagues singing its praises.  Consumers should expect great wine and plenty of it!

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June 12, 2012 · 9:00 AM

Sonoma 2010: A challenging vintage that put winemaking philosophy to the test

With the quality wines of the 2010 vintage slowly being released, I thought it would be worthwhile to uncover how one of California’s most talented winemakers, Tyler Thomas of Donelan Wines, handled this difficult growing season.

Tyler Thomas at Kobler Vineyard

In a couple sentences, describe your winemaking philosophy.

Find great fruit, great people, and only do what is necessary. Find the point at which all things are balanced for each ferment, each wine, and only select the best of what results from this process. 

Considering most wineries are now beginning to release their 2010 vintage, how would you describe the 2010 growing season and harvest in Sonoma?

2010 was undoubtedly difficult because late flowering caused late harvest maturity. Because of this we lost a lot of crop to a devastating heat spike in late August, as well as early rains which increased mold pressure. However, for our Pinot Noir and Chardonnay this was not problematic and with our passion for selecting only the best, we discovered the great fruit and great wine of the vintage even if there was less of it. The wines are full of fruit, but more elegantly structured than something like the more austere 2009 vintage. 

What were the major adjustments you had to make in 2010 to ensure you maintained your ability to produce wines up to your standards?

Thankfully, our abiding philosophy of ample vineyard time, selection and quality over everything else set us up quite well to handle 2010. Even in great vintages we segregate vineyard sections, barrels, etc. based on quality variation and then select the best of the best to meet the goals for whatever wine it is we are making. As a result, 2010 instigated a higher degree of selection, a bit more vineyard time to ensure we were on top of what was occurring as harvest approached, and removing certain lots; but not really any major adjustments to the actual process. We thought of 2010 (and 2011 for that matter) as more European in its sensibility and we tried to select for, and build, the wines consistent with that idea.

 Would you consider your efforts a success and how so?

Yes! Someone who recently tasted many of the 2010s noted that they seemed Californian, but with a high degree of European sensibility. I couldn’t agree more and would consider that a success. With all the blending trials we conducted, I feel very confident that what went to bottle was not only the best we could offer relative to the vintage as a whole, but a very fine wine in its own right irrespective of the vintage. The greatest producers are known for their wines in the toughest of vintages, I hope we can consider our wines in that category.

Finally, which was your favorite wine of 2009 and 2010 and why?

This is really tough because I am a mood drinker: I drink wines I am in the mood for based on context and food. I am very proud of all the wines we make, really I am! 

However, since you are forcing me, I would have to say…

  • 2009 White – Venus
  • 2009 Red – Kobler Family Vineyard Syrah
  • 2010 White – Nancie Chardonnay
  • 2010 Red – a close call between the Two Brothers Pinot and Cuvee Christine Syrah!

Now for the wines…

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About 2 months ago I had the distinct privilege of escorting Joe Donelan, owner of Donelan Wines, around to some of Southern NH’s premier restaurants to show many of their current releases. Throughout the course of the day, I had the opportunity to experience their evolution. Here are some of my musings…both from the restaurant tour and a Donelan wine dinner I hosted in January with some friends.

2009 “Venus”, Roussanne/Viognier, Sonoma County (’09 Sold Out/’10 $45)

Popping aromatics and playful acidity. Aromas of wild honey, citrus, and wildflowers with hints of wet stone lead to an enticing palate of crisp Asian pear, juicy citrus, melon and lavender with a pleasant medium-bodied quality that’s a delight to find in a white wine. Senel Wine – 94 pts (Senel Wine’s Top 10 Wines of 2011: #9)

2010 “Nancie”, Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast($45) – Barrel Sample

From the onset I thought I was in Beaune, in particular Pernand-Vergelesses. The minerality of this wine paints the picture and is complemented with a fruit salad of Granny Smith apple, lychee and citrus. The use of neutral oak provided body; however was largely passive and the finish was crisp and lasting. Senel Wine – 90 pts

2010 “Two Brothers”, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast($55) – Barrel Sample

Beautifully soft and expressive feminine qualities similar to Chambolle Musigny with a side of masculine Pommard strength. As a barrel sample is started out tight; however bright red fruit, earth tones, leather and Asian spice emerged after it had a chance to fill its lungs. Intriguing complexity of layers and a very long and memorable finish. Senel Wine – 93 pts

2009 Cuvée Christine, North Coast($45)

This wine is a variable picnic that you can drink all day. A fragrant walk through a lavender field while sniffing a handful of dark, ripe berries. Followed by flavors of blackberry jam, lightly peppered grilled meat and a light streak of oak and herb. Will only benefit further with 3-5 years of aging. Senel Wine – 92 pts 

2009 Obsidian Vineyard, Syrah, Knight’s Valley ($90)

At first sip, all that can be said is…damn, what an exciting wine. This is an intense, terrior-driven, amazingly well-structured Syrah! The aromas abound with deep dark fruit with aromas of stone, bacon, wildflowers. The flavors were equally impressive minerality for an intense wine, with layered fresh blackberries and blue fruit, dark chocolate, and a savory, smoky/burnt undertone, with muscular tannins. Enjoyed on three separate occasions with consistent notes. It will only benefit further from 5-10 years of age, if you can refrain from opening now! Senel Wine – 97 pts

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May 29, 2012 · 9:15 AM

Smell: Giving life its savor

By Tyler Thomas

How much are you using your nose?  Sure you’re breathing, but what about smelling.  How often do you notice the aromas you encounter on a daily basis?  In the book Aroma: the cultural history of smell the authors make a compelling case that in the west we have lost an appreciation for aromas.  We’ve become a “de-odorized” culture.  Is there a case to be made that we should reverse this trend?  I think so, and I think wine can help.

You might wonder “for what purpose?”  Why should I desire for people have a greater appreciation for even the more pungent and foul aromas like gasoline (which many people secretly like), sewage, or body odor?  As a winemaker who appreciates aromas on a daily basis I wish I could make a passionate moral case that you will be a better person if you awaken your olfactory sense.  But let’s face it, there is no such case.  However, there may be reasons motivating enough.

You see paying attention to aromas can be akin to paying attention to life and this is a worthy reason to enjoy the fair and foul smells of our existence.  For example, there is a common taint in wine that is a result of a compound leeched from cork closures.  It is called trichloroanisole (or TCA) and offers a musty, moldy aroma that robs wine of expressing any of its true nature.  As a wine professional, I recognize the “fault” of this aroma, as I am quite endeared to the smell.  TCA reminds me of Grandmere and Grandpere’s dilapidated shed in Williamsburg, VA.  They had this old shed where Grandpere kept an even older refrigerator full of beer, plus all his gardening tools.  Parenthetically, he was fond of growing potatoes and often had sacks of unwashed potatoes in the shed alongside the dirt encrusted tools with which he dug them out of the ground.  We’ve recently learned that some species of Streptomyces bacteria, found principally in dirt, are capable of producing the taint compound TCA.  I digress.

So while I recognize the impact of the compound on the wines I make, I’m often fond of it when I encounter the smell because it conjures up so many memories of Grandpere, his not-so-secret smoking out by the shed, his cheap beer, the beautiful forest that filled their backyard, and his potatoes.  I relive pleasant memories because of smell.

In the aforementioned book Aroma, a man who lost his sense of smell is said to have noted that “…it was like being struck blind.  Life lost a deal of its savor – one doesn’t realize how much ‘savor’ is smell.  You smell people, you smell books, you smell the city, you smell the Spring, maybe not consciously but as a rich unconscious background to everything else.  My whole world was suddenly radically poorer.”

Wine can help you pull aromas from the unconscious background to the fore by employing your mind to awakening your olfactory sense and actively think about the odd aroma wafting from a wine glass.  In fact you can use wine to train your mind into a greater appreciation for the aromas of the world and vice versa.  You do not need to have a great sense of smell; you need to have a great desire to learn about a smell.  Don’t fret about pulling out specific characters.  Begin by thinking of the big picture of wine: it’s perceived complexity, does it have seemingly endless layers of flavor, and how does it feel in your mouth, how long lasting and pleasurable is the finish?  As you become more engaged you’ll find a wine you love and you’ll want to describe it to your friends.  In grasping for ways to describe it you’ll find yourself making associations between the wine and the aromas you already appreciate in everyday life.  You don’t have to be able to pick out apple or cherry or cedar and be correct about it.  No, wine isn’t about being correct.  It’s about making associations.

For example you could say this wine reminds me of the smell of grandmere’s kitchen when she made her roast lamb with plum reduction, warmed croissants, and sautéed beans with lardoons.  So what’s the wine equivalent?  Meaty, sweet with dark fruits, and roasted gamey flavors.  Our only hope?  That it doesn’t smell like Grandpere’s shed!

Tyler Thomas is the winemaker at Donelan Family Wines.  Prior to Donelan, he was the assistant winemaker at Hyde de Villaine Wines of Napa, California for four years.  Prior to that, Tyler gained experience at both domestic and international wineries, including stops in Germany and New Zealand. Tyler has a B.S. and M.S. in Botany from Colorado State University and a M.S. in Viticulture and Enology from the University of California Davis.

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April 13, 2012 · 9:15 AM

Single Vineyard vs. Cuvees: A Wine by Any Other Name

By Tyler Thomas

Frequently I am asked the question “which is better, blends or single vineyards wines?”  The way we couch things in the industry, it seems sometimes that one or the other should be better.  Large production wines with broad area designations (like Sonoma County) are typically lower priced blends, with single vineyard typically designating wines of lower yield and greater consistency, thus a higher price.  Although this is the common belief, is it accurate to imply that a blend has an inherent deficiency over a single vineyard wine?  To put it plainly: no.

This is largely fueled by one major fact, price. Many wineries from the U.S., along with certain other areas of the world, showcase their single vineyard wines as their “top-of-the-line” brands. Because of this, there are very few single vineyard wines at the “low end” in terms of price. This would naturally imply their inherent superiority but it doesn’t mean that they are the only representation at the “high end” of the quality scale. 

The fact remains that blends frequently make high-priced and high quality wines, with one only having to look at the most famous wines region in the world to prove this point.  As in the case of Bordeaux, which produces red wines that are typically a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, and Petite Verdot, one may even say that the best wines in the world are blends.  And it doesn’t stop in Bordeaux, as some of the best wines from the Southern Rhone region of Chateauneuf-du-Pape are rarely single variety or single vineyard wines.  Thus, cuvees (blends) and single vineyard wines both have a place and both can be terrific.

Daily, I work with Rhone varieties like Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre and cuvees allow me to utilize several vineyards to achieve a wine style that is within the diverse spectrum of Syrah flavor, or to create blends that hearken back to one of our inspirations: Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The goal of any cuvee is to utilize all the parts, all the colors, to paint a picture or present an offering that is greater than any of the individual parts.  Additionally, blends allow one to buffer vintage variation (the differences in quality, due to any number of reasons, from year to year) taking what one vineyard may need and providing it through wine from another site.

A single vineyard wine should not only be of interest solely because it is from a single vineyard.  They must stand alone as complete wines that have a unique, intriguing aroma profile, a full and balanced mid-palate, and complexity. However we also expect single vineyards to provide unique, even singular characters or markers that seem largely attributable to the fact that the grapes were grown in this or that location. In other words, we can only make this Syrah from this vineyard, not that vineyard, and vice versa.  One of the vineyard’s I’m privileged to work with produces one of the most unique Syrahs I’ve tasted in California. It’s a complete wine worth sharing not only for its overall quality, but also for its Je ne sais quoi and blending it away would be a shame.

In the end, any wine made should achieve the goal of the winemaker: to please the consumer.  At the high end, producers are looking for “complete” wines: ones that offer complex aromas, perceived depth and weight on the palate, a long pleasing finish, and tremendous balance.  Whether this is achieved through a single vineyard or cuvee is often independent (or should be!) of the fact that the #1 goal is quality quality quality!  And if someone pledges this as their goal, then whether they go about it by blending or single vineyards should be nearly irrelevant.

Tyler Thomas is the winemaker at Donelan Family Wines.  Prior to Donelan, he was the assistant winemaker at Hyde de Villaine Wines of Napa, California for four years.  Prior to that, Tyler gained experience at both domestic and international wineries, including stops in Germany and New Zealand. Tyler has a B.S. and M.S. in Botany from Colorado State University and a M.S. in Viticulture and Enology from the University of California Davis.

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April 3, 2012 · 10:00 AM

German Lessons

By Tyler Thomas

Making great wine vintage after vintage is a result of two places: the vineyard and the mind.  While inimitable wine presumes inimitable fruit, the role played by the mind, and juggling variables involved from vineyard to glass are less easily delineated.  That experience is important to winemaking is obvious and there is no intent to diminish the large amount of physical labor and time sacrifice, but what is it about experience that provides a winemaker with an expanded tool bag?  How is it that we learn to make better wine?  How is wine made in the mind?

I’ve read once “don’t learn the tricks of the trade, learn the trade.”  Knowing how to clean a barrel doesn’t necessarily make me a better winemaker, but knowing the language of winemaking (another way of saying the science and art) and understanding how people handle different challenges might.  Deciphering how another individual thinks about wine, what is their philosophical approach to making a wine, to balance, to quality; understanding these elements from one person or culture can be integrated into handling the fruit from your own region, climate, and vineyards.

This is exactly what I have taken away from each experience in the industry and particularly overseas opportunities.  One such experience arose thanks to some wonderful guidance and good fortune while in graduate school at the Universityof California, Davis.  I was able to take leave from HdV Wines in Napaand be a “visiting scholar” in the leading Viticulture and Enology institute in Germany.  While the trip did not involve producing wine per se, the interaction with growers and winemakers over the course of 3 months in six regions (Rheingau, Pfalz, Mosel, Champagne, Burgundy, and Alsace) was paramount to developing my own take on wine production.  My scholarly research was an esoteric investigation in vine water relations, but understanding each region’s approach and thoughts about not only how they make their wine but also how they think about tasting their own wine left the most important mark on my development as a winemaker. 

These experiences evolved my mental approach to wine production.  Concepts like balance, importance of extraction, emphasis on mouth feel over flavor, and perhaps most importantly: how wine was esteemed in each culture. 

An example: what is meant by tension?  Is it important?  It seems European producers (the aforementioned regions in particular) are very keen to have “tension” in their wines.  What I learned is that tension is largely acidity, but more than simply some level that can be measured.  It may be better to suggest that acid provides tension when it is a strong wire upon which everything is hung.  Acid without substance is tart and acidic; acid with substance is tense, supple, and even plush; and substance without acid is soft, at times loose, and fat.  Wines can be found in each of these categories.

There was no specific technique that emphasized or deemphasized tension, but its central role in what was considered high quality wine drove decision making in the vineyard and during extraction.  In other words, understanding what was meant by tension, and then tasting with winemakers who aptly described tension, allowed me to develop a sense for how I could integrate that intoCaliforniafruit independent of site and varietal.  It was one more aspect of the trade whose understanding mentally aided me to produce terrific wine.

In each of my stops I’ve tried to get into the head of the vigneron, to understand and anticipate what their rationale might be.  Now that I make those decisions myself, the central role of philosophy and how we think about wine is obvious.  Great fruit is a necessity, but one must also take concepts and execute them to help transform that wonderful fruit into inimitable wine.

Tyler Thomas is the winemaker at Donelan Family Wines.  Prior to Donelan, he was the assistant winemaker at Hyde de Villaine Wines of Napa, California for four years.  Prior to that, Tyler gained experience at both domestic and international wineries, including stops in Germany and New Zealand. Tyler has a B.S. and M.S. in Botany from Colorado State University and a M.S. in Viticulture and Enology from the University of California Davis.

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March 27, 2012 · 8:15 AM

Sonoma & Syrah

By Tyler Thomas

As the principle grape we employ in our vinous endeavor and the vehicle to my wine interest you may dismiss my passion for Syrah as mere pandering.  However if you are willing to explore the depths of Syrah and embrace its diversity, you too might find yourself captivated by its beauty and versatility.  While Syrah’s Achilles heel might be its palatable diversity, this is also its strength and no county shows this so well as Sonoma County.

By palatable I mean that in both cool and warm sites, with both savory (read less ripe) and unctuous fruit (read riper) Syrah can appeal.  It is able to maintain integral characteristics of the variety in both scenarios.  While Pinot noir is often upheld as the ultimate variety for expression of a particular place (and for good reason), I think a case can be made for Syrah as well.

Sonoma County offers a wonderland to explore Syrah’s diversity with a bounty of north-south running ridges bisected with a few east-west conduits for cool air.  This combination of high elevation, narrow valleys, and daily ebb and flow of cool coastal air creates many pockets of subtle temperature variation, sometimes in places least expected.  For example, Bennett Valley southeast of Santa Rosa in the central part of Sonoma County would often be thought to be warmer than say – the Russian River Valley to the west – due to its farther distance from the cool ocean breezes.  However its topography with a narrow gap allowing some cool air to approach from the sea along with high elevation mountains on 3 sides draining cool air into the valley ends up producing quite a cold area for grape growing.

In addition to many small pockets of temperature difference, the soil types and water holding capacity within Sonoma County is very diverse.  Syrah seems to significantly respond – more so than certain varieties – to changes in water availability.  This is because it controls water loss differently than other varieties, even varieties with similar origin like Grenache.  Therefore if given ample water, Syrah grows like a weed.  Reduce that water and witness dramatic differences in growth and the nature of the fruit. This indicates the importance of site selection for the variety and given the diversity in Sonoma County soil clearly becomes another actor that will create wines highly dependent on the site in which they were grown.

So with this diversity of climate and soil within Sonoma County viticultural areas between Russian River, Green Valley, Bennett Valley, Chalk Hill, and SonomaValley…the list goes on; there is opportunity to experience very different, but very good wines.  We revel in that diversity as we use it to generate diverse components for producing several tasty Syrah blends, but also showing off 4 different single vineyard wines that all represent excellent, if unique, versions of Syrah’s palatable diversity in cool to cool-ish sites.  While some find the different tastes confusing, I recommend seeing it as an opportunity to learn about the sub-regions of Sonoma County and how climate and soil even in small regions can impact the taste of wine. Sonoma is a veritable viticultural playground for producing wines of great individual character, enjoy!   

Tyler Thomas is the winemaker at Donelan Family Wines.  Prior to Donelan, he was the assistant winemaker at Hyde de Villaine Wines of Napa, California for four years.  Prior to that, Tyler gained experience at both domestic and international wineries, including stops in Germany and New Zealand. Tyler has a B.S. and M.S. in Botany from Colorado State University and a M.S. in Viticulture and Enology from the University of California Davis.

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November 2, 2011 · 8:15 AM

Autumn Pairing: Pork Chops and Cabbage w/ Savory Apple Cider Gravy & ’09 Donelan Venus

Now that we’ve had two stunning dishes paired with two exemplary wines, it’s time for the pièce de résistance, my recipe! Ok, so we were supposed to have a third guest recipe; however it seems as if they’ve backed out. The key to life is rolling with the punches and I’d never let you guys down.

A few weeks back I made this dish and considering we’re basking in the glory of autumn (or in the case of New England, winter), I wanted to make a dish that exemplified the season, while providing an awesome pairing with my favorite white blend, Roussanne/Viognier.

The wine selected for this pairing is from one of my favorite winery, Donelan. Their line-up of Rhone varietals is, in my opinion, second-to-none in California and rivals the greatness of the royalty found in the Rhone itself! The 2009 Donelan Venus is no exception to this trend, with popping aromatics and playful acidity. Aromas of wild honey, citrus, and wildflowers with hints of wet stone lead to an enticing palate of crisp Asian pear, juicy citrus, melon and lavender with a pleasant medium-bodied quality that’s a delight to find in a white wine. Winemaker Tyler Thomas has done a beautiful job with this wine and I grade it out at 94 points, and would like to note that this is a white that almost any red lover would embrace.  

The greatness of this pairing is that it brings into focus everything that’s great about autumn. The colors, the ingredients, the crispness, it’s all there and works harmoniously together. This wine will also pair seamlessly, as well as lift-up,  traditional Thanksgiving fare.

Pork Chops and Cabbage w/ Savory Apple Cider Gravy (Serves 4)

The pièce de résistance!

Ingredients

  • 4 pork chops, cut ¾ inch thick
  • ½ medium head of cabbage, shredded (3 cups)
  • 1 large carrot, halved lengthwise and coarsely chopped
  • 1 medium onion, cut into medium-thin wedges (3/4 cup)
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1 ½ cups apple cider
  • 1 ½ tablespoons cider vinegar
  • 3 teaspoons prepared horseradish
  • 1 medium red apple (preferably Courtland), cored and sliced (1 cup)
  • ½ tablespoons cornstarch
  • 1 tablespoon of flour
  • 2 beef bouillon cubes
  • ½ teaspoon black pepper, coarsely ground

Directions

  1. Trim fat from meat. Spray an unheated, large skillet with non-stick spray or coat with butter. In the skillet brown chops over medium heat about 4 minutes on each side.
  2. Add cabbage, carrot, onion, 1 cup of the apple cider, vinegar, garlic and horseradish. Bring to boil and then reduce heat to simmer. Cover and simmer mixture for 7 to 8 minutes or until cabbage is crisp-tender. Add the apple; cook for 2 minutes more.
  3. Promptly transfer the pork chops and vegetables to a platter, reserving the liquid in the skillet; keep platter warm.
  4. For gravy, stir together the remaining half cup of apple cider, bouillon cubes, and pepper. Blend with liquid in skillet, then begin whisking in cornstarch and flour. cook and whisk until thickened. Cook for 2 additional minutes. Strain through colander into serving vessel (to catch any chunks of cornstarch or flour) and then serve with the pork chops and the vegetables.
  5. Enjoy!

I hope you enjoy this dish, I know my family did. Let us know what you think AND be sure to check out Donelan Wines, they’re 100% worth my hype!

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August 3, 2011 · 8:30 AM

Wines I’m diggin’ now

The last few Wines I’m diggin’ now installments have been themed, so I thought I’d get back to simply recommending some awesome wines that I know you’ll enjoy. Well…you’ll enjoy if you like wine that is. As of late I’ve been heavy on the New World, hell for most of this year I’ve been a New World man; however fear not, after attending quite a few tastings and buying more Old World’s lately you’ll see more coming soon.

So without further adieu, it’s time for some wine!

2009 Orin Swift, The Prisoner, Red Blend, Napa $35

Orin Swift Cellars has quickly become one of Napa’s hottest wineries. Their edgy and beautiful labels catch the eye, the names of their wines (i.e. The Prisoner, Abstract and Papillon) make you think, and their wines capture your soul. The character, which is deep and brooding, kind of like an intense dream, is what has drawn scores of wine lovers to join the Dave Phinney fan club.

The ’09 Prisoner is a mammoth wine. A blend of primarily Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, it has load upon loads of black fruit which simply punches your taste buds. Light herbal and spice undertones follow and are then joined by well-integrated oak, nice acid and gamey tannins. Basically, it’s gluttony in a glass.

Senel Wine – 91 pts

2006 Flora Springs, Flora’s Legacy, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa $110 ($39 on Wine.com)

Winemaker’s note: By now the story is well known, nearly 26 years ago, our mother and grandmother Flora Komes was suffering from a blood disorder. True to form, she chose not to follow her doctor’s wishes. Reading numerous reports on the benefits of red wine, Flora began a strict regiment of one glass of her very own Flora Springs Merlot each evening. We don’t claim to be working miracles here at Flora Springs, but Flora has adhered to her glass a day dose. November 7th Flora will be celebrating her 100th birthday!

What a fun and uplifting story from a terrific, yet underappreciated, Napa winery. I had this wine this past weekend while out to dinner at Juniper’s at the Wildflower Inn (Vermont). All four of us at the dinner table were momentarily speechless, rendered mute by the quality and grace of this wine. Oddly enough, I looked up reviews and they were rather muted for a wine of this quality (91 on Cellar Tracker). All I can say is the style is not typical Napa, so maybe that threw some folks.

The ’06 Flora’s Legacy is jaw dropping juice. Aromas of bright ripe raspberries, blackberries and currants are joined by leather and eventually graphite and herbal undertones. The balance between the alcohol, tannin and acid is easy to overlook because the flavor profile is so alluring; however the underlying character of this wine is more of a Pauillac/Napa hybrid than straight Napa. Tremendous!

Senel Wine – 94 pts

2010 Donelan, Rosé, Sonoma County $25

I’m going to be upfront, I love Tyler Thomas’ wines. The man’s alchemic touch is up there with the best winemakers in California. Typically I’m raving about his reds (the ’08 Cuvee Christine was #3 in the Senel Wine Top 10 of 2010); however this time he’s created quite possibly the easiest drinking, interesting and deceptive rosé that I’ve had.

The ’10 Rosé is made from Syrah and possesses all of the typically lovely qualities a rose should (i.e. watermelon, strawberry, lush acid, etc) however it’s the presence of rose petals, hints of citrus and white chocolate that put me over the top about this wine. To top it off, it’s exquisitely balanced, so much so that I couldn’t tell that it was 14.5% alcohol, until I stood up that is. The integration of a cornucopia of flavors, supple mouthfeel, deceptive alcohol and refreshing brightness makes this easily my favorite rosé.

Senel Wine – 93

2009 Gemtree, Tadpole, Chardonnay/Viognier, McLaren Vale (Australia)

This is a producer I first came across while putting together the original wine list for Juniper’s at the Wildflower Inn. I think underrated and underknown is a fair description for winemaker Mike Brown and the gang at Gemtree Vineyards. From top to bottom, they have a line-up that’s very impressive and pulls out the best of what McLaren Vale has to offer the wine world. Besides the Tadpole, look for their “Uncut” Shiraz and “Phantom” Petite Verdot, both are wines that will make you look past the screw cap and take notice.

Chardonnay mixed with viognier is certainly an Australian thing. This ’09 Tadpole is blended very nicely to create a wonderful sipper that pairs perfectly with fried foods, meatier seafood and poultry. The partial oak age is present; however Mike Brown’s restraint is appreciated. Flavors and aromas of citrus, light caramel and tree fruit meld together elegantly to provide a lush taste experience.  The harmony of the flavors is carried into the balance between acid, oak and alcohol, which offer structure to an overall solid wine.

Senel Wine – 90

Have you had any of these wines? If so, let us know what you thought in the Comments section.

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June 15, 2011 · 6:19 PM

An interview with Tyler Thomas of Donelan Wines

Tyler Thomas

For the past few years, I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying the transition of one of California’s truly spectacular wine houses.

Back in 2009, I first came across PAX/Donelan through a bottle of 2007 PAX Cuvee Christine while dining at Bedford Village Inn (Bedford, NH). To say it was a revelation would be cliché, so let’s say it was seismic. Since then I’ve pretty much tried every wine PAX had to offer from 2007 vintage. They were terrific, everything you’d expect a high-end Cali Syrah to be.

Then came the 2008. There was a noticeable difference that can only be described with one word…purity. The transition came largely due to a switch in winemaker. The ‘08s were the first vintage wholly undertaken by Tyler Thomas, who replaced Pax Mahle after he left the winery baring his name. 2008 marked a year of transition and rediscovery, not only was it the birth of Donelan Wines, but also the emergence of Tyler as one of America’s truly great winemakers.

Tyler Thomas of Donelan Wines

What’s your job? 

My main job is to interact with growers and to understand what we need to do in each vineyard to optimize the quality of wine for any given vintage. Then it’s to direct our winemaking such that we utilize our understanding of the vineyard qualities and pair them with the appropriate cellar practices. Choosing only the best barrels is the final piece to the production process and the winemaker should have the most objective palate in the company. You must be willing to reject lots, even if quite good, if they’re not improving the sum of the parts. The Donelan’s have provided me the freedom to be uncompromising when it comes to quality.

Where’s your winery? 

The winery is in a light industrial park in Santa Rosa, CA. We work with vineyards in Sonoma County within about a 15 mile radius from the winery. 

What was it about this location that made it the ideal spot for the owners?  

The vineyards are our focus, and Santa Rosa provides a centralized location for accessing all our unique sites. While the winery does not represent any feats of architecture or design (we like to think our wines are more special and refined than the building), we do have plenty of space to have full control of our processing so that we can breakdown all of our vineyard lots into as many small sections as possible to ensure we are doing everything to capture the highest quality from each place.

How many employees are there at the winery?

Just 3 of us!

Why did you choose wine? 

With hindsight I’d have to say I was influenced by my Dad because he’s obsessed with aromas. When I was a kid I remember my dad scouring a room sniffing like a dog trying to find the source of some peculiar aroma. I’ve realized that this taught me early on to pay attention to and consider aromas and tastes at a very young age (and yes I do the same thing now). Of course Grandmere must be credited with infusing our family with French culinary traditions and early exposure to wine as a beverage with a meal. My Dad’s mother was born and raised in Southern France and our family took their culinary customs to heart.  Then I became enraptured with Rhone wines and this generated a desire to investigate wine more and more. 

What I learned was that wine is analogous to life, full of things we know and understand, but even more laden with mystery. And part of the enjoyment is reveling in the mystery of wine (and life!). It always leaves an opportunity for discovery and this appealed to my curious nature; after all, our proprietor says “wine is a journey, not a destination.”

Describe your winemaking philosophy. 

It starts in the vineyard, of course. But who doesn’t say that?!? My goal is to discover (the greatest wines are not made, but discovered) and distill what truly makes an impact to the governing components of great wine, and only do those things. This is minimal winemaking at its best: find the best fruit which is in part defined by needing little attention. I also like to question paradigms under the idea that tradition is birthed from experiment (particularly in the vineyard!). There are many commonly held “truisms” in winemaking, but some of them seem to be no more than unquestioned answers, as opposed to answered questions. I like to challenge those unquestioned answers. To discover what makes great wine we go to great lengths to identify, capture, and understand natural variation that occurs in quality even within small vineyards. We can track every barrel back to a specific part of any vineyard where we may have identified vines “behaving” in a different manner than other parts of the vineyard. This allows us to ensure that only the best sections of any one vineyard are utilized. We’re not interested in making the average of any one vineyard, even if that average is very good, we want to only produce the best.

Describe your wine in one word. 

Can I have two? Uncompromised purity.

What’s your favorite varietal?

Syrah because of its palatable diversity. It can be grown in so many different terroirs and produce such a diversity of styles that are delicious. I love Pinot Noir for its delicacy, and Chardonnay for its beauty birthed from simple winemaking, when from great vineyards that is.

What’s the favorite wine that you produced and what set it apart from your other wines? 

I must refrain, grower relations is a big part of my job   Really though I drink different wines on different occasions and with different cuisine.  We have such a spectrum of what Syrah can be that there is an extraordinary opportunity to learn about Syrah’s unique qualities.  I like Moriah for its Grenache, Christine for its mouthfeel, Richards for its incredibly unique nose…I could go on.

What’s your greatest ever wine experience? 

There have been several. The standout probably was in the cellars of DRC. After a wonderful barrel tasting of each terroir, we finished with ‘99 La Tache and ‘84 Montrachet. That Montrachet is the best wine I’ve had to this day.

What’s your favorite meal to pair with one of your wines?

I love French food, perhaps because I grew up with a French Grandmere. In all my travels I think I enjoyed Thai and French food the most, with French cuisine barely edging out the Southeast Asian delicacies. Grilled meats are wonderful with most of Donelan Syrahs, however I like to experiment as well. I’ve tried our Grenache-based 2007 Cuvee Moriah with Gazpacho and it was truly delicious. The spice and freshness of the wine was well balanced by the sweetness and fruity nature of the gazpacho. The experience of not only the flavors but the textures of the two were terrific.

What does “terroir” mean to you?

Here’s my definition: A confluence of soil, microclimate, material, and deft touch that produce unique changes to the governing components of a wine’s taste.

Besides your own wines, who produces your favorite wines?

I’ll always be a big fan of HdV Wines, because I helped make them, but also because I think they’re quite good. Peay is another quality winery I enjoy following. Chateau Pibarnon from Bandol is another collectible for me, along with Clos du Caillou CdP. I drink Magnien (either one) Burgundies regularly because they are solid and available. Vieux Telegraph comes to mind as well. Finally I’d say I’m a recent fan of Tenuta Sella in northern Italy.

What do you hope for in the future?

Besides world peace?  A continued opportunity to discover and distill great wine from great properties. I’d like to travel again in some of the European wine regions I hold so dear.

What’s your favorite thing to do outside of wine?

Spend time with my family. Aside from that I enjoy cooking, baseball, baking bread (just another fermentation!), theology, rock climbing, and backpacking.

What challenges do you see moving forward regarding regulations or economic restrictions and what are you currently doing to adapt?

I think water availability could be a problem in the future and we are already moving toward dry farming whatever and whenever we can. We’ve recently begun a program to explore a new product that not only will allow us to avoid the use of synthetic chemicals in the winery, but also reduce our water usage in cleaning by half.

If you weren’t into wine, what would you do?

I’d probably be a baker.

Be sure to check out other interviews with gracious owners and talented winemakers in the “From the winery to you” section of Senel Wine.

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