Tag Archives: Wine Collecting

Celebrating the ‘Big 33′ with a bottle of 1979

Celebrating birthdays as you get older becomes more and more underwhelming, especially if you’re a guy and have a kid. Most of your energy throughout the course of your year is dedicated to celebrating other things, be it a child’s birthday, an anniversary, your wife’s birthday, Kwanza, etc. By the time your insignificant day comes around, all you’re likely hoping for is a day-off. Wine can offer you the opportunity to cast off the mundane and partake in history, while still kicking back on your couch.

This past weekend I celebrated 33 years with my twin, 1979 Comtesse Lalande which was still delivering a masterful experience.

Over the past few years, I’ve tried to spruce up these overlooked days by injecting a bottle of wine from my birth year. What I’ve gained out of this was a truly unique connection with the past that is in many ways indescribable.

There are a few things to keep in mind when choosing a wine to for an upcoming “33” or “42” or whatever age you’re turning:

1) Choose wisely – Not all wines are able to stand the test of time, in fact very few are. I know my Napa-phile friends won’t be happy with this, but for anyone over 35, don’t even bother with California. So where to look? In my opinion, stick with Bordeaux, Burgundy and Piedmont (Barolo) and even then, favor the better wineries.

2) Cost – Although this can be a pricey endeavor, it doesn’t necessarily have to be. Sure, if you want a bottle of 1964 DRC La Tache you’re going to plop down a fortune; however if you want to venture outside of the pinnacle of wine, you can find some decent deals. I’ve personally had tremendous luck using the site WineBid.com and $75-$150 will allow you to acquire a Super 2nd from Bordeaux pretty easily. There’s also your local higher-end wine shop that may be able to act as an intermediary and assist you in acquiring something rare without having to pay a 15% buys premium (as you must on WineBid).

Although not ideal, a crumbled cork does make for a nice picture!

3) Preparation – You’ll likely need two things to open your properly aged (which means not in the wine rack in your kitchen) wine: a Butler’s Friend and a decanter.

  1. Butler’s Friend: the essential tool for opening a bottle with a cork that’s likely brittle from years of storage. The lighly curved metal prongs slide in between the inside of the neck of the bottle and the cork, allowing you to gradually disgorge the cork (see picture for what happens when you don’t have a Butler’s Friend)
  2. Decanter: Do me a favor. Hold your breath for 2 minutes. What did you do immediately after the two minutes is done? You probably took a few long deep breaths to try to re-oxygenate your body. Wine does the same thing. Opening a bottle of wine is actually a pretty violent process for the juice inside. Give it an hour to catch its breath and see how it’s progressing along the way.

There’s an intimate link with history when you partake in a wine from your birth year. It’s an ethereal experience that can’t really be described. Hopefully you have the opportunity to partake at some point!

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Why Age Wine?

By Michael Meagher

It is only a recent development that we can ask the questions of why and how we should age wine.  As little as 400 years ago (wine dates back at least 6,000-8,000 years, so 400 years is pretty recent history) wine moved on a relatively quick journey from grape juice to wine to vinegar since storage vessels were usually wooden barrels or poorly sealed containers that allowed large amounts of oxygen to come into contact with the wine.  It was only with the development of glass bottles and cork closures, which protected the juice from rapid deterioration, that consideration of whether a wine is age-worthy entered a consumer’s mind.  While there certainly are some wines out there that are designed for consumption as soon as possible, a good portion of wines will be consumed many months or even years before they reach their peak.  The truth is that most people don’t see wine as a living, breathing, evolving beverage that usually will benefit from a bit of patience before you pull the cork. 

So why age wine?  One rationale in favor of ageing wine points toward the fact that in the process of creating what we know as wine, the juice goes through a lot of “growing pains” in becoming what we are familiar with.  Fermentation is a fairly violent process with naturally occurring heat, carbon dioxide, sulfur, and all sorts of other chemical changes, and if it’s a red wine then there is extraction of anthocyanins, polyphenols and tannins from extended skin contact. 

If the wine sees time in a barrel, then there are more additions and changes to the structure of the juice with tannins, vanillin and slight oxidation taking place.  By the time the wine reaches the bottle, it’s gone through huge amount of change.  For those who are skilled in the kitchen and have made a soup or stew, there’s the adage that it’s always better the second day, and this holds true to wine.  It takes a while for the ingredients in a wine to mesh and aging a wine will give it the necessary time to reach that optimal state. 

Now not every wine needs the same amount of time to age and show more integration of its components.  Only a few varietals are ready to drink after only a few months in bottle, so winemakers will often hold wine back from release to avoid premature consumption.  This is because of one of the great qualities of wine, its ability to develop secondary characteristics after years of bottle aging. 

Wine in its youth will show primary flavors of fruit, which makes sense since it’s made from fruit.  However, as a wine develops, a lot of those chemicals that are floating around in the bottle have a chance to either bind together or bind with some of the small amounts of oxygen the cork allows to enter the bottle.  This will cause development of secondary aromas like tobacco, mushrooms, dried herbs, savory meatiness, and even what is affectionately referred to as “barnyard”.  

Perhaps the best reason to age wine is for the fun experience of seeing it change and evolve over time.  Instead of buying just one bottle, buy four bottles, (it doesn’t have to be ultra premium juice) and open them over the span of a year or two.  Take some notes on the aromas and flavors each time you pull the cork and compare them from each bottle.  The differences might be subtle, or they might be drastic, but they will give you a good illustration about the nuances and potential of a bottle to improve with age.   Plus, it’s kind of fun, which is what wine is supposed to be all about.

Michael is a Master Sommelier Candidate is in the process of completing his Diploma of Wine Studies from the WSET.  Being a former collegiate athlete, he is now focusing that competitive spirit on the wine world.  He won the 2010 Chaine de Rotisseurs Best Young Sommelier competition, finished third at TOP|SOMM The US Sommelier Championships.  He also serves as Chairman of the Boston Sommelier Society and owner of the beverage consulting company, Sommelier On-Demand.

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Wine: Understanding and unlocking its investment potential

Over the past few years there has been a surge in mainstream interest surrounding wine as investment. With volatility and uneasiness surrounding the stock market, high levels of sovereign debt and a lack of confidence in governments, both foreign and domestic, more and more people are looking to non-financial assets for a portion of their portfolio.

Last Wednesday on CNBC’s Squawk Box, Scott Minerd, Chief Strategist and CIO of Guggenheim Partners, was discussing the viability of non-financial assets at a time when structural issues cast a massive shadow over the U.S. and Europe. Albeit he was speaking of these assets as a hedge, it strengthens this arena’s appeal as a viable investment. Whether it’s antiques, art, diamonds, or wine, there’s something comforting about investing in something tangible.

This comfort should not be the only reason that you invest in these assets, there must be the potential to make money as well. When looking at the Liv-Ex 500, a region-weighted index based on current best (cheapest) list price, in comparison to the S&P 500 or any other major equity index, one can quickly see the value that wine can add to your portfolio. 

There has been no "Lost Decade" when it comes to the fine wine world; however it's important to truly understand the risk and involvement necessary to obtain these figures. (Source: Liv-Ex.com)

The potential for big returns is all well and good; however one should always consider the risks involved in investing in non-financials. When investing in wine, there are three primary risks that one should clearly understand:

Liquidity Risk: the risk that you won’t be able to convert your asset quickly into cash. Although a liquid, wine is highly illiquid as an asset, as it may take weeks and potentially longer to find buyers for your collection.

Principal Risk: the risk that the wine you selected will depreciate in value causing you to lose principal. This is why the selection of viable investment wines is so important.

Storage Risk: as with any physical investment storage is always something that needs to be considered.  Improper storage can lead to spoilage, theft or damaged goods. To prevent against theft or damage, be sure to contact your homeowner’s insurance provider. Conversely, wine when properly stored can increase in value significantly.

With the key risks being covered, let’s look at seven rules that will help you create an appreciating investment cellar.

Rule 1: Create a plan!

This seems intuitive; however the importance of having a plan can’t be stressed enough. You’d be shocked by how many investors purchase wines on impulse. Everything, from what, to how much, to when to buy and when to sell should be plotted out well in advance. If not, you run the risk of misappropriating your funds on the wrong wines.

Think of your wine portfolio in the same manner as your investment portfolio. To successfully manage your wine portfolio you need to follow five basic guidelines:

  1. Asset allocation and diversification:What regions do you want representing your core holdings (could be more than one)? What region’s wines do you want to compliment the core and at percentage? This is also the time to start breaking down the portfolio by vintage as well. Basically you want different lots coming due at different times; so create a plan for vintage selection as well.

    A sample allocation by region, meant for illustration purposes only. Although Bordeaux-heavy it illustrates the use of other regions for diversification. (Source: Liv-Ex.com)

  2. Research: Once you decide your allocation, begin to research the wines from the regions you’ve selected and begin to narrow them down based on your criteria. Once you’ve isolated the ones you want, begin monitoring them and find the most cost effective source from which to purchase. I’d also recommend having a few back-up wines in mind as well, as you may come across a bargain that makes more sense. It’s all about margins!
  3. Invest: Begin implementing your strategy by making the purchases. Depending on the region you’re featuring in your cellar, you may have to decide whether you purchase your wine en primeur, or futures, or at release. Typically, en primeur prices are lower than the release price by a decent amount. Plus even within en primeur the wines are released in different traunches with each subsequent being more expensive, so having a plan helps you capitalize. To receive this preferential pricing, you’re buying wines that are still aging in an oak barrel somewhere and won’t be shipped for a couple years, thus tying up your capital. When purchasing wines at release, it’s vital that you have a good relationship with a reputable wine shop. They can provide two things: better pricing and access to rare wines. This relationship is essential due to the typical three-tier system.
  4. Manage: This is the difficult part, whether investing in stocks or wine. You need to have the discipline to review your portfolio on a set schedule and analyze your current holdings and make changes when appropriate. If you do your planning up front, this part is far easier, because you already know when certain wines should be sold due to progress in age. By this I mean when wines reach a certain level of maturity, restaurants and consumers begin to look for those bottles, thus there’s increased demand and limited supply. They pay the premium for the work you’ve done. Also, assess the wines that aren’t living up to their potential as an investment. There’s nothing wrong with cutting your losses if a wine has lost momentum in the marketplace. You can always replace them with another wine you’ve been researching and deemed a viable replacement. Finally, cash in or scale back on your winners, investing is only worthwhile if you can make money!
  5. Your representative: You want to be able to sell your wines in the most efficient manner while generating the most buzz for your lots. Continually reevaluate what secondary vendor you use to sell the lots you’re looking to move. Your four options are retail, broker, online auction and live auction. Each option has its pluses and minuses. Each represents you as the seller differently and at a different cost. What’s good for one lot may not be the same for another.

Rule 2: “Blue Chips” are your best friends

Auction houses and other investors are rarely interested in what cool, esoteric wines you’ve discovered. Very few wines go on to become Screaming Eagle or Sine Qua Non and even fewer would-be buyers care about which wines you enjoy. I’m not being a jerk, only a realist.

Although there’s a niche market for obscure wines, “Blue Chips” are the way to go. These wines are your huge names in the auction market that will have heavy demand many years from now. Since liquidity is always a risk to keep in mind, these wines should make up a majority of your cellar because of the activity they generate. Remember, when dealing with any region, the prestige of the vineyard is as important as the producer. There’s plenty of Schafer out there, but it’s the Hillside Select that collectors look for, not the 1 Point 5. With that being said, I’ve broken this group into a rudimentary two tiers system (which should be broken down further within the tiers; however for the sake of not making this article unbarably long I’ve left them combined):

Tier 1 – Wines that are historically the most sought after and lucrative in the world wine market, hence limited supply and higher demand. These are the wines you’d likely consider as part of the core of your wine portfolio.

Tier 2 – Are wines that have more traction within certain specialized niches. This means that the demand is primarily coming from smaller pockets within the broader world market. They may not be Bordeaux, but they do offer some opportunities to those who are selective. These wines are typically seen as a way to compliment the core so tread lightly.

Tier 1

  • Bordeaux: Although I’ve been critical of the Bordelais and their pandering to the Chinese passion for their wines, there’s no more important region when it comes to investing. Look to Left Bank First Growths and Super-Second Growths, as well as the best of the Right Bank (i.e. Petrus and Cheval Blanc) and d’Yquem, the mighty Sauternes. I’d even lump in the Second wines of the First Growths into this category as a diversification tool (see chart and subscript below). With the recent success of the ’09 and ’10 futures offering, there’s solid availability of other optimal vintages, namely ’05, ’03 and ’00. Also look to ‘shadow vintages’ such as ’06 and ’01 as they are largely overlooked due to their legendary predecessors. Although you pay a premium, Bordeaux should be considered the core of your core holdings.
  • Champagne: Stick with the best houses from the best vintages as they are the place to be when it comes to bubbly. There’s a reason why Krug, Veuve’s La Grande Dame, Roederer’s Cristal and Dom Perignon have the prestige typically associated with them.
  • Burgundy: Stick to red (for the most part), Premier and Grand Crus only and try to avoid negociant wines, domaine wines are certainly preferable. Look predominantly to wines from Côte de Nuits for the most viable interest. There’s a lot of traps in Burgundy, so be careful!
  • Northern Rhône:  Hermitage, Hermitage, Hermitage! This appellation is the most prestigious to investors. Names like Chave, Guigal, Jaboulet and Chapoutier should spring to mind.
  • Southern Rhône: The best of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and only the best Chateauneuf-du-Pape. And by the best, I mean the best from the best. There’s a glut of CdP which isn’t a good sign; however the best offering from the top of the line producers are still strong, especially Beaucastel, Pegau and Clos de Papes.
  • Australia: For the most part, outside of legendary Penfolds Grange and to a far lesser extent Torbreck RunRig and Clarendon Hills Astralis, there isn’t a vast demand for Australia. They certainly produce some iconic wines; however there’s a very small secondary market for most others. BUT, if you can put together a collection of Grange, you’ll be smiling.
  • Tuscany: Super-Tuscans, such as Sassicaia and Ornellaia, are the real attention grabbers and should be the focal point of the Italian portion of your wine portfolio, if you want to have an Italian portion that is. Even then, focus only on the best vintages. There’s also potential for Brunello di Montalcino as they’re generating some deserved buzz, but don’t go crazy with them. I consider BdM Tier 2.
  • Napa: Only estate and non-corporate/pre-corporate wines should be considered, with the only exception being Opus One. If a winery sources their grapes, they’re not necessarily a good investment, fair or not; however there’s always a few exceptions to this rule. Stick with the big guns with a solid track record and strong demand (i.e. – Bryant, Bond, Colgin, Harlan, Joseph Phelps, Screaming Eagle, Shafer, etc.). There are also a few new or reinvented wineries making a push to be considered blue chips, with two names, Schrader and Chappellet, breaking through the headwinds.  

    Although flat in 2011, Second wines of Bordeaux First Growths diversification potential while capitalizing on the name. In my opinion, the flat start to 2011 has been cause by two major headwinds. The first being monies being redirected towards 2010 futures. The second being the geopolitical issues of 2011 causing some wine money to stay in the pockets for the time being, which is a healthy market reaction. Watch this area closely. (Source: Liv-Ex.com)

Tier 2

  • Bordeaux: This time around we’re looking at Third through Fifth Growths; however not all of them. Some have more traction than others, be tactical here as some can really excel. Just ask the fans of Pontet-Canet.
  • Ribera del Duero & Rioja:  The only regions in Spain with enough demand and only the top wines from the biggest names such as Vega Sicilia, Lopez de Heredia, Pingus and Numanthia-Thermes from these regions garner consistent attention.
  • Piedmont: Angelo Gaja holds down the fort when it comes to Piedmont and has strong investor appeal, thus Gaja is Tier 1. Outside of Gaja, I feel as if Piedmont, and Italy in general, has been relegated to Tier 2. There’s some additional interest in the likes of Luciano Sandrone, Robert Voerzio and Bruno Giacosa, but these should only be viewed as options in the very best of vintages. Call me a skeptic, but I wouldn’t create a collection around them.
  • Germany: Riesling is king of white wines when it comes to devotion and cult status. Focus primarily on Spätlese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese from Wehlener Sonnenuhr from and obviously from the best vintages. Not a huge market; however they do well as they’re increasingly hard to find due to most being consumed near initial release.
  • New Napa and Other California: This is where things get a bit tricky. There are a lot of exciting wines being made in and outside of Napa; however that doesn’t necessarily mean that they make for a sound investment. Recent auctions reaffirmed Sine Qua Non as the most highly sought-after non-Napa from California. Other than SQN (which is Tier 1 caliber), Saxum continues to do well, with a few others garnering some interest. 
  • Chile: Very interesting from a consumer standpoint, but Chile doesn’t have a great track record at auction. Although, Casa Lapostolle’s sensational Bordeaux-styled Clos Apalta has been a new arrival to the demand portion of some auctions. There’s certainly another producer to watch in Almaviva; however there’s very little interest in other Chilean wines.

Rule 3: Buy cases when possible

If you have the means to purchase wines by the case do so. This simple act could increase the value of those wines. Lots maintained in their original case typically garner 10-15% more than broken cases at auction (those which have been opened and are no longer a complete case).

Collectors, especially the Chinese, love when wines have been aged in their original cases, especially if they’re Tier 1 wines in wooden cases. What the cases ensure is that the wines haven’t been handled or tampered with, which typically indicates better provenance (history of the conditions of storage). Considering the Chinese are currently driving demand, it’s best to know what they prefer.

Rule 4: You break it, you bought it!

If you’re purchasing wine as an investment, don’t disturb the bottles. Besides the potential to drop your investment and render it worthless, wine also ages best if undisturbed. Although inanimate objects, there’re very few things more interesting to look at then a great bottle of wine for a wine collector. 

Then there’s always the temptation to pop the cork on a great bottle. You must exercise self-control. One way to fight the urge is to purchase a loose bottle or two for your enjoyment along the way and leave the investments in their cases.

Rule 5: Storage

If you don’t have a proper place to store your wine (i.e. – a cool basement with steady year-round temperature, a temperature controlled cellar or professional storage facility) then don’t start collecting just yet. Without appropriate cellar conditions, your wines could possibly depreciate. Auction houses and websites look for telltale signs of poor storage: abnormal ullage levels, seepage, mold, discoloration, etc. At the point of sale, these imperfections are brought to the attention of would-be bidders or buys, potentially limiting your wine’s upside if not rendering it unsold.

When considering storage, a few things should be kept in mind. A consistent temperature around 52-54 degrees and 70% humidity is widely seen as optimal, as well as a lack of exposure to ultra-violet light. Outside of volatile temperatures, UV exposure is the most damaging of all elements to a bottle of wine.

Rule 6: Provenance

Provenance is the most important word in the world of wine collecting. This is recent and significant, as we are in an era of increased awareness and skepticism towards rare or high-valued wines. Provenance isn’t a concept just for the big investors either. There’s increased demand that you know where your wines came from and how they’ve been stored when you plan to resell or bring them to auction. For high-end investors, companies such as Bordeaux Wine Bank play a vital role in their strategy.

Finally, there is the PR factor. This isn’t so much a rule, but a helpful suggestion. Considering most investors don’t have the opportunity to try all of the wines they invest in, they look to sources to confirm quality. As much as many people don’t want to admit, wine critic Robert Parker is the only voice that carries any cache in the wine investment market, so pay attention. When “The Emperor” speaks, investors listen. This is especially true when he reassesses a previous rating, it can cause a great surge or dive in a wine’s value.

These basic rules should serve as a good starting point in creating an appreciating investment cellar. Remember, these are rules for investing in wine, which is completely different from collecting wine for your personal enjoyment.

The keys to investing in wine, as with investing in anything else: appreciate the risks, have a well thought out plan, reduce your margins where possible (i.e. having a good relationship with a reputable wine shop), adhere to that plan with strict discipline and finally, revisit that plan regularly. Remember that the wine market is similar to the stock market in that it’s ever evolving, so your active participation is a must in order to be successful.

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The Wine World: Winning & Losing (Volume 8)

There are many things to consider when beginning a wine collection

I figure it’s been enough time since I last spoke about wine collecting/auctions, that I should bring it back to what I find an interesting paradigm. So for this installment of The Wine World: WINNING and LOSING we’ll be focusing on factors driving today’s collectibles and tomorrows prized bottles.  

Why look at wine in this manner? Well, given the state of World economics, the fact that wine is doing so well truly speaks to its worth as not only one of our favorite libations, but also as a potential asset.* The following are a few of my viewpoints on recent events/topics found in the news.

WINNING

2011 Napa Valley Wine Auction – Sticking true to what makes Napa a great wine region, the auction raised an additional $7.3 million for Napa Valley charities. Year over year this is a wonderful event that has raised over $100 million for charity since its inception three decades ago. The pleasant thing about this auction, it’s not all about which billionaire will walk away with a museum piece to show off to his buddies. The most saught after lots here are typically a package that showcases Napa in a truly unique way for the winning bidder. Now sure, this is still a playground for the rich and they still get to show off to their friends; however there is a bit more substance and romanticism to this auction. On top of that, it’s for charity!

Wine Cellars and Real Estate – This article is almost painfully obvious; however I decided to include it because more people should consider this, especially if they love wine and plan on building a middle to high end houses, or plan on remodeling their kitchen. With the increased interest in wine here in the States, more and more people have started their own consumption cellars. Eventually, their collection grows and can no longer fit in a wine cooler. What then? In my opinion, convert a closet or add-on a wine cellar. I know, this is not the most practical way of doing things; however the cellar will serve three huge functions: proper storage for your wine, a terrific focal point to show off to friends, and a unique component to your house when it comes time to resell. In a world of granite and stainless, this is something to truly set your property apart. I know the article focuses on the English market; however add cellar, even a small one, to your place in Boston, NYC, Miami, LA or Chicago areas and see what happens.

Robert Parker -  Minutes after writing the bit about En Primeurs (see losing) I read this bit about a recent interview with the king of all wine critics, Robert Parker. “Bordeaux is the epicenter of the greatest wines. I hate to see the image damaged by the fact people tend to think it’s too expensive.” He goes on to say, “Bordeaux is focused too much on the wealthy Asian market. Despite the fact thatChina has so many wealthy people, it’s a very dangerous game if they raise prices, because the world economy is very, very fragile.” Now some people blame Parker for the high prices, as his ratings are the only ones that matter to Asia and collectors in general. The higher the Parker score, the more valuable the wine. However the guy is just doing his job, it’s the Bordelais chateau owners that make the pricing decissions and unfortunately for us, they’re making a mistake. What happens if the Chinese economy has a hard landing and Bordeaux has to turn to a consumer base that they’ve effectively isolated?

1806 Chateau Lafite - Back in 1976, David Lyons purchased the bottle at a then world record price of $14,200. Now, you can barely get a case of Lafite for that price in a good vintage, so I’d sayLyons got a hell of a bargain. Gotta love inflation, investors and the emerging Chinese wealth. For the record, the current record for most expensive fermented juice is $232,692 for a bottle of 1869 Chateau Lafite purchased at a Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction in 2010. So investing in certain wines does make sense, because 1500% returns are fun, considering that’s based on a bottle that’s 63 years younger!

LOSING

2010 Bordeaux En Primeurs - It’s pricing season for the 2010 Bordeaux futures, that magical time when you are buying bottles that you won’t receive for another two years. The time of year that Americans wait for, but can’t afford…cause we’re poor. Thanks to the rabid lusting for anything luxury, prices for the futures of wines from the World’s most famous wine region have gone up 10-30% yet again. Last time I checked, the world financial system was still garbage, governments are using a heavy hand in regulating monetary policy and unemployment is still historically high. Considering the low levels of inflation in Europe I’m going to go out on a limb and say their operating expenses haven’t gone up by those same percentages. So, did I miss something? Congrats to the Bordelais for producing another fantastic vintage, yet pricing out even more wine lovers just to capitalize on Asian gluttony. Piss off, I’m done with Bordeaux! Ya’ll are playing with fire.

2011 California Growing Season – I know it is still early; however Mother Nature is toying with the already frail emotions of California’s vintners. If last year was a challenge, then this year may be a struggle. Late frost, and then heavy rains combined with cooler temperatures in May have left many vineyards about 4-6 weeks behind schedule. According to this AP article chronicling the shortcomings of this vintage thus far, the author states, “Now just days before the official start of summer it looks like early spring across California wine country. Buds are just emerging and the fruit is forming far behind schedule.” Unless there is a drastic turnaround of sustained months of warm and dry weather, this could be a rough vintage for vintners, consumers and collectors alike.

*There are risks associated with investing in wine. I highly recommend you read “Investing in wine: 5 steps to success” that I wrote for Smart Tastes, as well as do additional research before considering to do so.

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Word of the Day: Provenance

This OWC of 2000 Petrus is an example of Five Star Provenance (Photo: BordeauxWinebank.com)

Webster’s Dictionary defines provenance as:

  1. Origin, source
  2. The history of ownership of a valued object, work of art or literature.

Provenance is also the most important word in the world of wine collecting. For years, there have been exciting bottles to emerge on the auction scene. From rare bottles of pre-Phylloxera Château Lafite and Château Latour to the much fabled (and controversial) ‘Jefferson Bottles’ to the even ‘newer’ 1920s Petrus, there seems to be an intriguing supply of mythic unearthings. There’s one problem that these wine pose, unknown or undocumented provenance.

As many wine enthusiasts are aware, the problem of unknown or questionable provenance has caused an influx of skepticism and lawsuits, most notably by billionaire William Koch. After Koch purchased bottles with questionable origins, he undertook a crusade against those who he felt wronged him. This crusade is two-parts noble, one-part unbridled vengeance (in my opinion); however it has led to collectors being far more careful about the wines they purchase at auction. With the days of the high-flying, reckless spending orgy that was the 1990s now long behind us, collectors are more astute, or at least more protective of the fortunes they’re doling out for wine.

Enter the 2011 Hong Kong auction season. Thus far this year, the Hong Kong market has doled out cash at an alarming rate for fine wines with nearly $35 million being sold at three auctions alone. Although this hyper-inflationary trend is alarming and befuddling, it also revealed a refreshing side effect of the Koch Crusade. At the Sotheby’s January 23rd auction, a consignment from the Bordeaux Winebank triggered record-breaking bids totaling $1.9 million. Why is this significant? Bordeaux Winebank is a consortium whose sole focus is on what they dub Five Star Provenance. Every lot from this firm has to meet the following strict guidelines:

* All wines are sold exclusively in original wooden case (OWC).
* All wines must have documented “ex château” provenance.
* All cases must remain in professional storage in Bordeaux since bottling.
* Professional storage facilities must be temperature and humidity controlled and monitored 24/7.
* Annual certification of procedures by a qualified auditor.

Yup, that’s five stars if you are doing the math and it adds up to no questions as to the authenticity of the wines they bring to the market. This is significant, especially in an era of increased awareness and skepticism towards rare or high-valued wines. Provenance is a concept that should not be lost on smaller collectors either. Demand that you know where and how your wines came from and ended up in your cellar, especially if you plan to resell or bring to auction at some point in the future.

One can only hope that the trend towards demanding impeccable provenance will continue to gain momentum to the point at which we can once-and-for-all bid farewell to the dishonest elements that have infiltrated history’s greatest drink.

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Is investing in wine “cuckoo”?

Lord Andrew Lloyd Webber (photo - WSJ.com)

A couple months back I began reading up on the legendary cellar of Lord Andrew Lloyd Webber. Yes, the same Andrew Lloyd Webber (A.L.W.) that wrote Cats, Phantom of the Opera (a personal favorite), Evita and countless other plays is one of the most significant collectors of French wine in the world. During this time there have been many articles telling of the background of his passion for wine and how the Chinese cannot wait for the Sotheby’s auction that will parcel off of a portion of his collection. I’ve found all of these articles to be quite interesting; however there was one thing said in a Wall Street Journal interview that put me off.

You see, there are many collectors out there who have this overly romanticized vision of wine. They collect it in droves, sharing some, enjoying others, and yet holding back even more for the right moment. But what is that moment? For many, it’s that point when they realize that what they are sitting on is too large of a collection, and simply put, a treasure. They usually realize this when Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Zachys or any of the other numerous auction have tirelessly pursued them to sell the lot, pocketing a handsome reward for their “passion”.

There’s absolutely nothing wrong with this practice, in fact the amount of hoarding that is done by wine collectors only benefits generations down the road. Without their need to have a massive collection containing many extremely rare bottles, the world would be without them forever. My issue comes when you have collectors that look at wine as an investment as “cuckoo” as A.L.W. so gracefully put it. He went on to say, “to think of something that is essentially a living thing purely as an investment commodity is, to somebody that is a wine lover such as myself, a complete anathema. Even when I was buying the 2000 vintage nobody could have foreseen how fantastically expensive wine has become.”

If it isn't about the money, then why not share with your friends instead of a no-name Asian collector? (photo: WSJ.com)

The amount of pretension in this statement is almost insulting, as if he’s above being considered an investor in wine. This is especially the case when it comes just a week before he completed the auction of that portion of his collection for $5.6 Million this past weekend. Considering many of these wines were purchased en primeur (futures offering prior to release) with the expectation that the value of the wines will be higher when issued, I feel that to look upon the potential of wine investing as cuckoo, is – well, cuckoo! If done correctly, wine, just like a stock or real estate, has proven to be an investment worth considering. And to add to his comment, “nobody could have foreseen how fantastically expensive wine has become” regarding the 2000 Bordeaux, plenty of people foresaw the potential of that vintage and scooped it up!

I don’t question A.L.W.’s love of wine in the slightest, it’s quite evident that he does. What I do question is his comment, and the many like it that I’ve come across in reading interviews of other collectors over the years. If the many collectors out there truly felt this way, then they’d be the ones to open their bottles of 1982 Château Pétrus or 1990 Domaine de la Romanée Conti La Tâche for their friends rather than allowing a no-name Chinese or Taiwanese millionaire bid it up. So, let’s be honest, wine is a terrific investment when you have the means and knowledge to invest properly, anyone who tells you otherwise is cuckoo!

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220-Year-Old Champagne Discovered off the coast of Sweden

Viking diver Christian Ekstrom and the bottle of "220 year old" Champagne he found at the bottom of the Baltic.

Do you remember when you believed that Santa or the Easter Bunny truly did visit your house to drop-off goodies especially for you? Now, do you remember when the illusions of those innocent beliefs were torn away from you? For most of us, it was likely one of the first times in our lives that we became cynical.

This above point of reference is exactly how I felt recently when I heard about the Nordic divers that found a cache of 220-year-old Champagne at the bottom of the Baltic. The cynic in me says that this has to be B.S.  This cynicism is all thanks to one man, Hardy Rodenstock.

The find is impressive in itself and I hope it is true!  To find out more about the amazing cache found at the bottom of the Baltic, read 220-Year-Old Champagne Discovered off the coast of Sweden.

One of the "Jefferson Wines" that are still causing a bit of controversy. (WS.com)

For more about the Hardy Rodenstock / Michael Broadbent / Jefferson Wine fiasco that has so many wine lovers somewhat jaded, here are some articles to get you started:

Broadbent: victim of a tarnished industry?

The Rodenstock/Christie’s saga takes another turn!

WS.COM: Christie’s Is Counterfeit Crusader’s Biggest Target

What We Can Learn from Bill Koch

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2009 Bordeaux Pricing is Set: Now What?

It is amazing what the hype-machine out of Bordeaux can achieve. The 2009 Bordeaux Futures are without a doubt, a success. The demand for this vintage has exceeded my expectations! I thought that the stagnation of our economy would put downward pressure on the futures. However, it turns out that Asia, Hong Kong to be more precise, is playing their trump card (in conjunction with strong demand from US Venture Capitalists). To this, I say “let them!”…

To find out how you can approach this in a responsible manner and capitalize on some favorable pricing, read 2009 Bordeaux Pricing is Set: Now What?

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What We Can Learn from Bill Koch

When I first read Ben Wallace’s, The Billionaire’s Vinegar, I was transported to a world that seems so completely foreign and unobtainable.  It is world of playboys and tycoons with far too much money, who threw outlandish, excessively hedonistic wine weekends in which they were partaking in tastings of rare verticals and bottling of some of the greatest wines ever created.

The fact that they were purchasing bottles of rare “Jefferson” wines and pre-phylloxera Bordeaux was not far-fetched and one could hardly feel bad that they turned out to be bogus.  However, the truth of the matter is that we are just as susceptible as these characters to the plagues that haunted them.

It has been a long time since I have looked at vintage bottles of wine the same way.  To find out more about ways to protect yourself from purchasing fraudulent wine, read What We Can Learn from Bill Koch, written exclusively for Cork’d.

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Reuters: Liquid assets outperform Russell 3000 Index

Investing in fine wine is something that most astute investors overlook completely.   Granted, there is an initial investment needed for a cellar, however when you add up the number of commissioned trades placed per year by many stock traders, you will see this initial cost as a bargain for the assets that the cellar will be storing. 

Yesterday, Reuters ran an article extolling the virtues of “liquid assets”.  A recent study has shown that during the recent period of economic instability (Jan 1996-Jan 2009), investments in wine have been more stable and better earners than investments in the market.

Here is and excerpt from the story as well as a link to the full article (click HERE):

Investing in wine, not just top Bordeaux but even cheap varieties, can be good for your total portfolio and is especially useful during a financial crisis, according to two Swiss economists.

“Wine in a portfolio has produced higher returns and lower risks than the Russell 3000 equity index … Especially in times of economic downturns” they said in a report in the American Association of Wine Economists.

The study comes as leading auction houses reported sales of fine wines totaling more than $12 million in the last two weeks.

Economists Philippe Masset, of Lausanne Hotel School, and Jean-Philippe Weisskopf, of the University of Fribourg, both in Switzerland, looked at auction prices from The Chicago Wine Company from January 1996 through January 2009.

“In a nutshell, our findings show that the inclusion of wine in a portfolio and, especially more prestigious wines, increases the portfolio’s returns while reducing its risk, particularly during the financial crisis,” they explained.

Can anyone say 2009 Bordeaux Futures!!! 

Full Article from Reuters

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